Monday, September 5, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter I by Deborah Dolen



Aromatherapy Chapter I

INTRODUCTION TO AROMATHERAPY by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011  This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook.

Deborah Dolen image

 

Intro to Aromatherapy– The term 'aromatherapy' was first used in the 1920's by the French chemist René Maurice Gattefossé who accidentally discovered in laboratory that lavender oil relieves pain and assists in healing of superficial burns. Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  


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Deborah Dolen is bestselling author of Aromatherapy Basics available on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble as well as Goodreads.

Aromatherapy Chapter II by Deborah Dolen



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter II What is Aromatherapy?

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. by Deborah Dolen pen name Mabel White.


 
The word “Aromatherapy” is a compound Greek word made up by the words fragrance (aroma) and treatment (therapy).

Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. by Deborah Dolen Mabel White.  Follow Deborah Dolen on Twitter!  

Saturday, September 3, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter III by Deborah Dolen


AROMATHERAPY - Chapter III by Deborah Dolen
History of Aromatherapy

Deborah Dolen photo
Deborah Dolen Aromatherapist Botantist
Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen

Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  



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Friday, September 2, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter IV by Deborah Dolen Safety Issues



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter IV Safety Issues of Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


Safety Issues of Essential Oils

The best course of action is always prevention. Meaning, do not allow essential oils in the hands of inexperienced people. Keep your essential oils out of reach of minors. Some smell so good, there have been reports of minors determining it smelled good enough to drink. Orange essential oil would be a good example.
Deborah Dolen


Transference is not hard. For example, you could get a micro amount of Cinnamon on your hands and not realize it until you rub your eye. If you live to talk about it, chances are you will never forget that experience.

Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  



Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White




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Thursday, September 1, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter V by Deborah Dolen Essential Oil Toxicity



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter V Essential Oil Toxicity


Deborah Dolen
Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  

The first thing you should about essential oils is which ones are toxic. Most students learn this last, such as myself--and they need to know it first. You may be surprised what is considered toxic. The web is overflowing with 'recipes' and 'formulas' that are fairly ignorant to what is toxic and why. Pennyroyal and Wintergreen are all too often seen in web recipes. They should not appear in any with great words of caution and dilution. This does not mean the author of any 'recipe' knows what they are doing. In fact, just the opposite. Some essential oils can overwhelm the kidneys and liver and shut them down.  Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  


Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



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Saturday, August 27, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter VI by Deborah Dolen




AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VI Adulteration; Dilution of Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



Adulteration and dilution of essential oils to increase profit, like anything in today’s society, brokers are looking for a way to save a buck and stretch a penny. The area of essential oils is no different, and in fact, not regulated. All you can do is buy from a reputable 'house' who is published and would risk their reputation if they were ever caught cutting the product. When a company has a large customer base, you know those customers are educated and would just 'know' if standards began falling. I do buy from such a company who services the big name Perfume Flavor houses. Flavor cannot be adulterated with low end chemicals or it would be obvious very fast. It took me several years to secure that supplier, because few people want to reveal their source. I also secured a few more back-up suppliers in 2007 so I am not dependent on the great price fluctuations of my first supplier. Even if a vendor did not lower standards, often they have no clue if the broker they bought from did dilute. The country of origin is typically the first consideration.

Natural health food stores? You can forget it. Most are 10% EO and the rest carrier oil. 

Please full excerpt of Aromatherapy Basics by Deborah Dolen at Apothecary University.  

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White





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Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Aromatherapy Chapter VII by Deborah Dolen Storage and Life Span of Essential Oils



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VII Storage & Life Span of Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


Like a fine wine, some oils get better with age! These include clove, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, spikenard, myrrh and vetivert improve as they age, but others, notably the citrus oils, oxidize and can become irritating and toxic with age.



Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen AKA Mabel White




RELATED ARTICLES:
Chat with
Deborah Dolen here: http://deborah-dolen.com/ Deborah Dolen Amazon www.amazon.com/Deborah-Dolen/e/B00457BI2S Deborah Dolen on Petal Science: How to Make Perfume http://petalscience.com/ Deborah Dolen Library http://www.deborahdolen.org/Deborah_Dolen_Library.htm Deborah Dolen Flying Ringo Home http://www.deborahdolen.com/Ringo.htm


Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Chapter VIII by Deborah Dolen Methods of Distillation



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VIII Methods of Distillation

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


Standards and definitions regarding essential oils are defined best by NAHA. NAHA, pretty much the governing organization in Aromatherapy and defines an essential oil as the following:

"The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) in their Vocabulary of Natural Materials (ISO/D1S9235.2) defines an essential oil as follows: "An essential oil is a product made by distillation with either water or steam or by mechanical processing of citrus rinds or by dry distillation of natural materials. Following the distillation, the essential oil is physically separated from the water phase."

When making my own macerations, I will usually order in a professional grade essential oil from that same herb and compliment my blend with a little of the real stuff. Lavender would be a great example. Many lavender festivals grow their own, but often order out any lavender notes they cannot achieve or just for more supplies than they can grow.

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White




RELATED ARTICLES:


Chat with Deborah Dolen here:






Deborah Dolen on Petal Science: How to Make Perfume












Sunday, July 31, 2011

Aromatherapy - IX by Deborah Dolen


Aromatherapy - Chapter IX by Deborah Dolen Attars, Compounds; Hydrosols by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



Once you learn the beauty of essential oils, you will learn about more affordable 'by products' of the manufacturing process. Run off water is known as a 'Hydrosol'. Examples are Rose Water, Lavender Water, Neroli and my personal favorites Roman Chamomile and Witch Hazel hydrosols. Hydrosols tend to run 10% the price of the actual oil, and a great way to experience an oil--such as Neroli and Chamomile, that are ordinarily cost prohibitive. I use hydrosols in componding skin toners, in some perfume formulas, in lotion and witch hazel for medicinal preparations.




SOURCES


Platto A. & Roberts D. (2001) The Aroma Quality of Lavender Water: a Comparative Study" Perf. & Flav. 26(3), 44-64]





Sunday, July 24, 2011

Aromatherapy - X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils



Aromatherapy - Chapter X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


AROMATHERAPY - Chapter X Top Twelve Essential Oils Everyone lists their “top ten” differently--perhaps depending on what sells the most (could be what is most affordable), what they learned first, or simply what they can access easiest in their location. I can’t help it, these are twelve I depend on. I am delineating my 'Top Twelve’ based on what we will use the most in my daily life. Ones that do double and triple duty. You can bet Lavender, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus are on every list. Later we will get into exotic and interesting essential oils. This is just a list of my favorite primary essential oils, the ones I would want in my family medical bag, and their top contributions and attributes. Dosage and application will be in the next chapter.



Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



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Sunday, July 17, 2011

Aromatherapy - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen Cooking w/ Essential Oils



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen

Cooking with Essential Oils

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White




Essentials in the Kitchen - Cooking with Essential Oils Most of our use in cooking with essential oils, such as Rose and/or Lavender Jelly, will simply be stirring them into salts, sugar, fats (such as butter, ice cream) and jellies. I feel this is the prudent way to become familiar with the use of essential oils in the kitchen as well as the most delicate approach to enjoying them. Keep in mind you will be using the amount on the end of a tooth pick for most.


Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen aka Mabel White



*The recipes are in the book. They will not line up properly here anyway.


SOURCES
http://www.amazon.com/Deborah-Dolen/e/B00457BI2S
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-chapter-xii-by-deborah.html
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-xiii-by-deborah-dolen.html
http://open.salon.com/blog/deborah_dolen_1/2011/07/11/aromatherapy_-_chapter_i_-_by_deborah_dolen

Monday, July 11, 2011

Aromatherapy - Chapter XII by Deborah Dolen



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XII

Cleaning with Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


Cleaning with Essential Oils Cleaning with essential oils is a non-toxic way to clean the home while lifting your spirits at the same time! As we see below, the power and energy of an essential oil can be delivered through a variety of systems, alcohol (for disinfecting) and the most common cleaning medium-good old soap and water. Most products in the store shelves are not "soap" and you will not see the word "soap" on them. Some people even try to brand SLS as "natural soap" and it is not. As you may all be aware, I use my own organic liquid soap to clean almost everything.


Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White





Thursday, July 7, 2011

Aromatherapy XIII by Deborah Dolen



AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XIII by Deborah Dolen
Essential Oil Chemistry and Pharmaceuticals

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



How did essential oils become known for having particular medicinal qualities or target effects? Did someone sit around and think these up or just hand down stories from generation to generation? I wondered that myself because not one Aroma therapist I ever ran into would mention phenols, keytones or terms used in organic chemistry. It is very possible they avoided using “techno” words as not to open up the next question…what is a keytone, aldehyde? And so on. The truth is, essential oils are very much used in the world of pharmacy and most descriptions below were taken from a Merck Pharmaceutical manual! (1988 Merck Index Eleventh Ed.)






Monday, June 20, 2011

Deborah Dolen's Perfume Formula | Cashmere



Deborah Dolen's Cashmere Perfume Formula

Excerpt How to Make Perfume  Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White


This is a seductive arrangement reminiscent of Chopard's Casmir. Chopard's Casmir embraces oriental vanilla, mango and subtle spices. You can craft this with essential oil or fragrance oils - just try to stay within the boundaries of the ratios below. Fruits generally do not come in essential oil mediums. This is why I listed them as just fragrance oil below. You can add a few of your own notes in, I think incense is awesome as a note (if you have captured any incense by infusion) and potentially sandalwood. You can anchor with a drop of Bergamot, I chose not too.

5 drops of Mango or Peach fragrance oil

5 drops of Jasmine fragrance oil
4 drops of Musk fragrance oil

4 drops Coconut fragrance oil

3 drops Lilly of the Valley fragrance oil

2 drops Patchouli essential oil

2 drops Amber essential oil

2 drops Oriental Vanilla essential oil [Tahitian]
1 drop Cinnamon essential oil [Cassia is fine]
1 drop Allspice essential oil
1 drop Clove essential oil
1 drop Nutmeg essential oil


Since all of the top, middle and base notes are perfected above - this formula tolerates the addition of florals and other spices very well. So, if you want to add more florals or spices or a variety of them-you will probably end up with another designer scent.

When you feel you have a perfume expression you love, you can then drop it into ethanol or perfumers alcohol to a dilution ratio you are happy with. This is the best way to convert an oil based recipe to a water based recipe. This formula is so special I do not use it for room spray. I use it for myself, in my bath, body lotions and so on. I discuss perfume dilutions here, in Perfume Crafting, and how to make solid perfume here. Savannah Botanical Perfume Formula is here.
COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months. http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Excerpt How to Make Perfume Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White






Friday, June 10, 2011

Deborah Dolen's Perfume Formula | Savannah Botanicals



Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

Deborah Dolen's Savannah Botancial's Perfume Formula

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White
Formula #01
Fragrance Oils
Rose Fragrance Oil 2 Ounces
Musk Fragrance Oil 2 Ounces
Clove FL 1 Ounce
Vanilla 1/2 Ounce
Cinnamon 1/2 Ounce
Oak Moss 1/2 Ounce
Vetivert 1/2 Ounce
Lilly 1/2 Ounce
Jasmine 1/2 Ounce
Hyacinth 1/2 Ounce
Orange Blossom 1/2 Ounce
Bergamot 1/2 Ounce

Savannah Botanicals Perfume is a beautiful expression of the Savannah Garden's Crabtree fragrance. At one point it was discontinued for several years, and why I felt compelled to make a close reflection. I worked on this for a few years and came up with a spicy, sweet floral that is a professional smelling blend. I formatted the formula in fragrance oil terms as well as essential oil terms. Most people cannot afford essential oils but have an easier time securing fragrance oils.

Formula #2
Essential Oils
Rose Attar oil 4 drops
Musk Essential oil 4 drops
Clove Essential oil 2 drops
Vanilla Essentail oil 1 drop
Cinnamon oil 1 drop
Oak Moss Resin oil 1 drop
Vetivert Essential oil 1 drop
Lilly of the Valley oil 1 drop
Jasmine essential oil 1 drop
Hyacinth essential oil 1 drop
Neroli essential oil 1 drop
Bergamot essential oil 1 drop

You can test this on a small scale, using fragrance oils - to see if you like the end result. Basically, to conduct a test using fragrance oils-just use the second formula that call for drops. When you feel you love it, you can then drop it into ethanol or perfumers alcohol to a dilution ratio you are happy with. This is the best way to convert an oil based recipe to a water based recipe. I use it for room and linen spray, and at times, I give it as a gift in a solid perfume form. I discuss dilutions here, in Perfume Crafting, and how to make solid perfume here.

If you like the perfume you can also put it in bath oils, body lotions, and so on. You may want to get picky about your fragrance oil sources anytime you put products on your skin - meaning when you are going beyond making room and linen sprays. To see what is your favorite fragrance profile, meaning what notes you are attracted to, click here. Select a few of your favorites scents and I am positive you will find they all have common notes. Click here for more on Perfume Blending. Deborah Dolen also teaches how to make perfume at Petal Science.

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White

Spreading Joy by Rose Maison also has a great narrative of Deborah Dolen's work.

COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months.http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Friday, June 3, 2011

Twitter Deborah Dolen | Deborah Dolens 20 Twitter Favorites


Twitter Deborah Dolen @DeborahDolen on Twitter



I love Twitter so much because you can perform a focus search on just about anything you are interested in. If you are into DIY, you can read educational news and posts about anything in DIY, and if you feel like it-you can even participate in the conversation. The same is true for couponing, if you are into coupons, or even environmental postings you can select that area to learn how to "go green."





I think Twitter will play a huge role in the next Presidental election. Never before have so many people been able to post ideas, during their busy schedules, and share why they feel what about who and why. I wonder if we won't all get on line some day to simply click a button to elect our president. Beyond polictics, DIY, crafting, and coupons-you can even follow your favorite music artist, sports, or just stay current on the news. I follow sports, mainly NASCAR and horse racing. Other area's I follow are the perfume makers as they always have neat ideas.





Cooking up a storm? Probably the best recipes in the world are shared on Twitter. I have many friends on Twitter who are Chefs. I find their posts amusing and informative. Suggested people to follow? Here is my list of who I enjoy following on Twitter: [Join me on Facebook because most of these people are my Facebook friends also!]


































































Happy Twittering - Twitter Deborah Dolen and my Dog Ringo too!




@DeborahDolen




@RingoDAWG

Friday, May 20, 2011

Deborah Dolen's Preakness Predictions

















Deborah Dolen's Preakness Predictions 2011

The 136th Preakness on May 21,2011 is drawing a little comedy on Twitter. Twitter people want to see "Rapture" and "LeftBehind" in the running. I was thinking "ThereIsNoHeaven" should run in that litte trifecta-owner, naturally, Stephen Hawking, to make a shocker of an ending promised by major know nothing (no not Hawking) but the real master of doom Harold Camping. My take on that expiration date is more a Lucifer date-he knows his time is almost up-not to mention the small detail that Harold Camping signed business contracts that begin after May 21, 2011 .




Back to the real world, betting on the Preakness is always a lot easier than the Kentucky Derby because there are far less horses and those horses who performed well at the Derby usually perform better at the Preakness. The caveat to all of this is horses do not usually win on dirt and go back to win on synthetics. I know I said in my last article, Animal Kingdom had no dirt experience at all and I ruled him out, albiet his Jockey I ruled in. Animal Kingdom won the Derby anyway and I learned an exception to every rule. Animal Kingdom was my belated pick at the Derby because of the Jockey. That Jockey, John Velazquez, was supposed to ride Uncle Mo – who became ill with suspected gastric issues as the Derby approached.

Uncle Mo is still recovering at Winstar Farm where he has been since May 9th. Uncle Mo is doing better and has gained 30 pounds. He had lost at least 60 pounds during his perplexing illness. Speaking of rest, Nehro has been pleasantly excused from the Preakness. His owner, Ahmed Zayat did not feel compelled to enter Nehro in the Preakness and loves his horse enough to give him a break. For that reason alone, Nehro’s owner just won five Preaknesses in my book. This leads to my other point about Animal Kingdom, I think beyond going back to a synthetic track, and the fact he is probably tired – I am betting on him for show. That is third place. He has been run a lot the last year.

Midnight Interlude [7] had a jockey change since the Derby, to Martin Garcia and there is no doubt Garcia knows how to bring Interlude to his best racing potential. My best guesses Derby wise were the Jockey guesses. Since I am talking Jockeys, I need to mention Julien Leproux and “Dialed In” [12.]

Based on all of that, my picks are Mucho Macho Man [9], Dialed In [12], Animal Kingdom [11], and Midnight Interlude [7]. I will just probably trifecta box those four.

To see the Preakness line up click here.




Deborah Dolen on Kentucky Derby 2011



Thursday, May 12, 2011

Deborah Dolen Saratoga NY Summer 2011

Photo Deborah Dolen
Now that I have passed a major bench mark in my life, I am getting back to writing. I am super excited to say some of my writing will take place this summer in Saratoga, NY. I will be in Saratoga for the the "Traverse," which is the oldest thoroughbred horse race in America. With any luck "Uncle Mo" will be there and I can visit with him. I grew up walking and grooming the most beautiful thoroughbreds on the planet, at Saratoga - and for the best Jockeys; Cordero, Shoemaker, and Belmonte to name a few.


As far as Saratoga in August, I am trying to fly in early because Train and Maroon 5 play at Saratoga Performing Arts on the 9th or so of August. I will be visiting a few wineries and a pefumery while I am in upstate NY. If I have it my way I will be right back up there for the change of trees and skiing in Vermont this year. Books I have planned are two - one about making perfume which is more of a DIY endeavor and one "fiction" about the BP oil spill because I really think there was more to that than ever met the eye.


I love making perfume, I think it is like "golf" is to many people - (and I do not like golf) but proponents of golf say it is a "challange" between your own self and a challange that can never really be won. So, they are attracted to a sport they can improve at, but never really "win" and that is very much like the past time of making perfume.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Kentucky Derby Run for the Roses by Deborah Dolen


There are many horses in this race, but just the same, many that have never ran on dirt or performed well on dirt - process of elimination is the best way to figure the outcome of the 2011 Kentucky Derby. The track is wet and expected to stay wet, and that will matter. I will get to the horses that only know or prefer grass or synthetic turf in a moment. If you are betting in the Derby try to pick your top six and stay flexible. A few contenders always get scratched at the last minute, so stay flexible. I tend to pick my top six-so last minute exits do not affect my positioning so much.

The favorites right now for the Kentucky Derby are Nehro [19], Twice the Appeal [3], Pants on Fire [7], in that order. Twice the Appeal normally would not be a huge contender, but the jockey, Calvin Borel, former three time Derby winner, (in the last 4 years) sure is. Mucho Macho Man [13] has also proven himself on dirt, and Dialed In [8] who is another favorite, because he is coupled with Jockey Julien Leparoux. Comma to the Top [6] is one I like and Archarcharch [1] - but he is on the inside and I do not think that is a good position for Archarcharch at all. A lot of people like Soldat [17] but I am not sure why because dirt tracks are not his bag. Brilliant Speed [2] is kind of a long shot favorite and I like him.

Picking by Jockeys

If we just picked this race by the Jockey it would be Midnight Interlude [15] with Victor Espinoza, Twice the Appeal [3] Calvin Borel, Animal Kingdom [16] John Velasquez and Dialed in [8] Jockey Julien Leparoux.


Uncle Mo, photo above, who has been a huge favorite simply is not in the running. Uncle Mo is my Secretariat. I had the good fortune to walk and groomed Secretariat when I was younger at Saratoga, then onto Belmont and then the Meadowlands. Uncle Mo has been having serious gastrointestinal issues, and after being looked at by three different vets - they agree he is in no shape to run. His owner is concerned at Uncle Mo's lack of responsiveness to his meds.



Master if Hounds [11] and Animal Kingdom [16] have never ran on dirt and it is supposed to be a wet track. Brilliant Speed [2] and Twin inspired [10] prefer turf or synthetic and never performed well on dirt.


I did not mention 4, 5, 9, 12, 14 and 20. Let's look at them: Stay Thirsty [4] Decisive Moment [5], Derby Kitten [9], Santiva [12] Shackelford [14] and Watch Me Go [20] because they are all long shots for verygood reasons.


Upsets could be Stay Thirsty [4] and Archarcharch [1] who is either going to make it or break it on the inside of the tough first gate.



My betting? I select a few ways and then box them, usually on a trifecta.



Performance: Nehro [19], Mucho Macho Man [13], Archarcharch [1], Pants on Fire [7].


Jockey's: Dialed In [8] Julien Leparoux, Twice the Appeal [3] Calvin Borel, Midnight Interlude [15] with Victor Espinoza, Animal Kingdom [16] John Velasquez.



Lucky Numbers: [3] Twice the Appeal, [4] Stay Thristy [6] Comma to the Top [19] Nehro



Like Names: Brilliant Speed [2,] Twice the Appeal [3], Comma to the Top [6,] Archarcharch [1]



Click here to see more about the horses http://www.kentuckyderby.com/horses




Post Derby Results: Animal Kingdom [16] just proved you can win the Kentucky Derby even if you have never ran on dirt. The beauty of Animal Kingdom was the Jockey was supposed to be Uncle Mo's Jockey. John Velasquez was tired of being scratched at previous Derby's and claimed the 2011 Run for the Roses as his own. My first two performance picks were on target and in order. So no more betting by lucky numbers or cool names for me!


Click here to see more about the horses http://www.kentuckyderby.com/horses

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



As summer approaches making your own perfume is a fun and easy project.

Making your own perfume or cologne is extremely easy if you have lots of time to just experiment with blending various scented oils. Almost all scents originate from the oil part of a botanical extraction. Even if a scent is not usually found in an oil form it is always best to try to find the oil version of the scent you like when trying to blend - if it is available in oil form. Vanilla would be a great example. Making vanilla extract is essentially making a perfume. Meaning the scent of vanilla is extracted by a form of alcohal. Vanilla is usually sold as water based (extract) but can be purchased as a much harder to find oil (essential oil)-however the oil based vanilla is going to last much longer in most professional applications. In a nutshell, I made my first perfume years ago by combining different precious oils, fragrance oils, flavor oils and essential oils I liked and had on hand. My formula was a mixture of vanilla, musk, neroli, vetivert, sweet spices, white florals (such as lilly of the valley, white rose), oppomax and incense. It took months to "build." I even soaked incense in oil for a few months, to capture the scent of the incense. (Naturally I strained it when I when I felt it was the most scent I could impart.) For about a year I just dabbed the oil I formulated on myself. It was not until I took that oil mixture I adored and dropped it into a very high proof alcohol (190 proof ethanol) - did it "bloom" and blow me away. I cannot recall why I did that - I think I was just bored or trying to make what I did have stretch to also share with a friend. Dispersing the oil in a high proof alcohol gave the scent so many new facets. Like my creation went from two dimensions to several. Most importantly it made it "throw" just like the Chanel #22 I was trying to copy. Chanel had ceased making that arrangement years back and I could not envision living without #22. Number 22 was known as the "wedding" perfume made with only white flowers. Knowing this was a major advantage to coming close to a copy I liked. There is a "perfumers alcohol" that is about 200 proof, but it is not easy to get. Mainly those who sell it, will elaborate on why you "must" use that. I use whatever I can get my hands on and that is generally "Everclear" or Mohawk, 190 proof.

Dilutions: What Makes Perfume Grade vs Toilet Water Grade?
I will call your final product a “compound” or “ester.” Once you have designed a great scent (compound) and given it a name it is going to be fantastic in any dilution! Your masterpiece “symphony” of oil based compounds will become more multifaceted with the addition of a high proof alcohol. A high proof alcohol such as Everclear 190 will “solve” your oils. Some states can only secure 150 proof and that is acceptable, but still not as good as 190. In fact, I really do not like 150 for much at all-so maybe forget that.

Real perfume is usually 10-20% of the master oils formulation and 80% a very high proof alcohol. Some perfumeries add 5% distilled water in exchange for part of the alcohol but I never have. Colognes are usually maxim 3-5% of the precious formula with 80% alcohal, and 10% distilled water. Toilet water is usually maximum 2% precious oils to 80% alcohol and 20% distilled water. Body splash is pretty much in the cologne dilution category. I do worry about oxidation of precious raw materials so I drop anti-oxidants such as dendritic salt and or vitamin E into my oil blends. ROE, Rosemary Oleoresin extract is also great and very powerful but can discolor the project.

Perfume = 10%-20% compound /5% distilled water/80% alcohol
Cologne 3-5% compound/10% distilled water/85% alcohol
Toilet Water=2% compound/18% distilled water/80% alcohol

Materials to make Perfume?
Beyond securing a high proof alcohol such as Everclear 190 and distilled water, you can draw raw materials to make your compound from many places. I know people who soak special woods in alcohal to extract a special scent. I find that so facinating. I did the same with orange blossoms that were always plenty on my property in Florida. When making your own perfume, you are going to want to buy some atomizers when you are on a roll with a great scent or two. Sephora makes some really neat ones I buy on line - probably half the price of all others ($10) and same peformance. Always keep careful notes. Your best creation could be what you felt your worst mistake. My readers generally have the same materials around the house that I have in my lab. They generally already have fragrance oils, flavor oils and/or essential oils. My Chanel #22 copy had about 50% fragrance oil, 20% flavor oil and 30% essential oil because I drew from what I had. I made careful notes about my sources of each scent because, for example, a vanilla fragrance oil is no where near as strong as vanilla essential oil. This means much less vanilla is needed in my formula if I ever replaced vanilla FO with vanilla EO.

Your Blend Can Go Into Lotion and Crème
Your compound can usually blend right into an already made lotion or crème without adding alcohol. Vanilla is my absolute favorite ingredient, and in almost all of my formulas, but the down side is browning. Vanilla seems to “bloom” into pink dots and over a month’s time make the entire lotion a pinkish brown. It looks just like women’s’ cosmetic foundation. Although the change always freaks me out, many of my friends liked that attribute and felt it was more natural. I am still on the fence about the “blooming” but I still loving my vanilla. Lately I just opt for a synthetic vanilla, that still is from a natural source. It is a tree resin. Meaning not all synthetics are dangerous chemicals. And some "natural" things that are "organic" are more dangerous that synthetics. Arsenic is a great example of a natural substance.

Other Ways to Garner Scent
Many people do not realize water is the most used solvent known to man. When we make a cup of coffee we are using water to “solve” the parts of the bean we are after. This is also known as solvent extraction. Now envision putting barks, petals, spices (in whole or freshly crushed form,) citrus peels and/or moss in the coffee filter. The end result would be a melange of scent.

Looking at scent compounding another way, think of vanilla extract. It is made over time by placing the vanilla bean in a high proof alcohol. To save money and perhaps reduce any residual alcohol smell, some distilled water is added to most extracts. As I said above, making vanilla extract is essentially like making perfume.

Just for Fun! Extraction Project
In 16 ounces of a high proof alcohol (2 cups) put lemon citrus rinds, cinnamon sticks, a vanilla bean (partially macerated- spliced- for maximum flavor,) crushed whole nutmeg or any other peel, rind, aromatic you can think of. Petals are OK but do brown. Allow to sit for a few months, shaking a few times a week. Filter through a coffee filter. For a stronger result do it a second time. I call this “folds,” such as “four fold” if I repeat the process 4 times. The end result should be a wonderful aromatic base you can spray around your home. Keep this away from heat because alcohol is very flammable.

Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 This e-book is available in full version on Amazon Kindle and Barnes and Noble Nook. By Deborah Dolen Mabel White



A very comprehensive list I created years ago is here:

Designer Perfume Notes Index
http://www.mabelwhite.com/Recipes/PerfumeFormulas.htm

Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2010/07/deborah-dolen-on-perfume-crafting-with.html

Deborah Dolen on How to Make Perfume
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/05/deborah-dolen-on-perfume-crafting-with.html

Introduction to Making Perfume and Most Important 66 notes to Have: Propensity Chart
http://petalscience.com/ by Deborah Dolen

COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months.http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Thursday, April 28, 2011

Deborah Dolen on London's Royal Wedding Bells

I took this photo when I was in London at 10 Downing Street. At the time it was the official residence of former Prime Minister Tony Blair. The horses kept on Downing street are known as the Queen's life buoys. They are expected to be in full force Friday as the Royal Wedding makes it way to Westminister Abbey.

For more dish on the Royal wedding cake, royal flowers and more click my OpenSalon article or follow me on Twitter!

Click here for full article by Deborah Dolen

Royal Website

The official Royal wedding site very interactive and looks like a Disney production. You can see it by clicking here: http://bit.ly/eDoD6K and live stream can be seen here on Friday, http://www.officialroyalwedding2011.org/


Visit Amazon.com's Deborah Dolen Page and shop for all Deborah Dolen books and other Deborah Dolen related products (DVD, CDs, Books, audiobooks). Visit Deborah Dolen on Twitter or join Deborah Dolen on Facebook. Sources: The London Apothecary by Deborah Dolen.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

One Dog’s Stoic Loyalty - Story from Japan’s Tsunami


One Dog’s Stoic Loyalty - from Japan’s Tsunami by Deborah Dolen

Two dogs were rescued from Sendai by a CEO of a pet food company, Kenn Sakurai, but not before millions of people around the globe saw the moving video of one disoriented pooch locating and then standing by another dog who was injured. Viewers then watched the patient efforts one the one pooch trying to wake the other one up. Even Cesar Millan Tweeted to me that it brought “tears to his eyes.” [@CesarMillan if you want to follow that great guy on Twitter!] The video touching hearts world wide is here:



After seeing the video everyone wondered the fate of the two dogs. The camera men took a lot of flack for leaving the dogs there. “They were located and removed by dirt bikes with cages strapped on the back,” said Kenn Sakurai. But the rescuer, the owner of the pet food company, made it clear there were many more. It took them 2 hours to ride them to the nearest shelter in Mito, Ibaraki-ken. Both dogs had ID chips and their respective owners have been identified. Regarding Sendai animals in general, there are reports of two horses refusing to leave their deceased owner. Witnesses said that is something that cannot be on video, naturally.

World Vets is committed to helping and The Humane Society International is shipping $120,000 worth of supplies and equipment to Japan. If you want to see about my dog, Ringo, was rescued from Katrina. He had swam in the levees at least 24 hours. I am about to get another Retriever and I anticipate naming him or her “Sendai.”

Some of the longest footage of the Tsunami is here:




Related Stories: California Couple Collects 34,000 pounds of food and counting for Japan’s pets

Author Deborah Dolen on Water Issues by Deborah Dolen (API)

Water is our most important resource. Read more about our water issues.

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Les Pigeons an examination of Politics 2001-2010

Poet Deborah Dolen's thoughts on Cheney, Greenspan, Rove, Gonzalez, Et Al. written in London

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Saturday, March 26, 2011

Deborah Dolen on Twitter

Deborah Dolen (DeborahDolen) is on Twitter. Sign up for Twitter to follow Deborah Dolen (DeborahDolen) and get their latest updates. Get short, timely messages from Deborah Dolen.

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Bees and Colony Collapse Disorder 2007

Bees are dying accross the United States. Why?

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Why I love Everclear to Disinfect Everything

At 190 proof Everclear will kill any germ. Find out other uses for Everlcear.

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Join me on Twitter! by Deborah Dolen (API)

Twitter is a great platform to express yourself. Read here how to get followers.

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World in Motion: No time for Rugged Individualists by Deborah Dolen

Discussion of Eyjafjallajokull and Katla as well as the Gulf Oil Spill

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Friday, March 25, 2011

Author Deborah Dolen Strikes Deal with Amazon Kindle: Beekeeper's Digest Soon to be Released London(API/RSS)

Beekeepers Digest by Deborah Dolen Available Soon on Amazon Kindle.

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My Faux Coffee Recipe for those Who Cannot Have Coffee

Can't have coffee but miss it Dearly? I did too! Here is the low down on how to work around that.

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Gulf Oil Spill: Everybody's Involved in This One! The Gulf Oil Spill by Deborah Dolen (API)

The impacts of the BP Gulf oil spill will be felt cross country and world wide.

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