Deborah Dolen's Blog

Aromatherapy Chapter I by Deborah Dolen

2011-09-05T07:26:00.000-07:00

Aromatherapy Chapter I

INTRODUCTION TO AROMATHERAPY by Deborah Dolen

Intro to Aromatherapy– The term 'aromatherapy' was first used in the 1920's by the French chemist René Maurice Gattefossé who accidentally discovered in laboratory that lavender oil relieves pain and assists in healing of superficial burns. René had burned his hand in the lab and immersed it in the closest liquid he could find, which was lavender. He was fascinated by the benefits of lavender oil in healing his burned hand without leaving any scars. He started investigating the effect of other essential oils for healing and for their psychotherapeutic benefits. Aromatherapy had been used in many ways, by many cultures prior to this, but René helped isolate the phenomenon to its own science.

Now that's the gist of the story as it is told over and over again by Aroma therapists. Notice René was not “smelling” the lavender--he stuck his limb right in it. So, the story demonstrated that lavender had a medicinal quality above and beyond 'aroma.' All aromatherapy in most countries revolves around essential oils.

Most essential oils have healing properties above and beyond psychological olfactory impacts. It's quite possible that calling it 'aromatherapy' was a politically correct way to work with the power to heal and not be a licensed physician. The word aromatherapy is somewhat misleading, as it suggests that healing works using the sense of smell and on the emotions. However, aside from the scent, each oil has a combination of constituents that interacts with the chemistry of the body which then affects particular organs or systems as a whole. When oils are used externally as with a massage oil, they are easily absorbed by the skin (at different rates depending on the type of oil) and sent around the body. If you rub a clove of garlic on the sole of the foot, it can be smelled on the breath shortly after.

Essential oils have three modes of action as to how they interact with the human body. Firstly, the pharmacological effect is related to the chemical changes that occur when an oil enters the bloodstream and reacts with hormones and enzymes. Secondly, the physiological effect is related to the way that an oil affects the system of the body such as being sedated or stimulated and so on. Thirdly, the psychological effect which happens when an oil is inhaled and causes a response to the smell. As we journey through the power of essential oils, we will learn many amazing things--such as workers directly handling rosemary, basil, and/or oregano were not succumbing to the avian flu [bird flu] when relatives in their abodes were infected with it.

We will find in the story of the 'Toulouse Thieves' [a classical aromatherapy story in the next Chapter] people were fairly immune from the Plague--this wasn't as casual as smelling the scent of an essential oil. For now we will move forward with the classical definition. ~Revised by Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter II by Deborah Dolen

2011-09-05T07:18:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter II What is Aromatherapy?

The word “Aromatherapy” is a compound Greek word made up by the words fragrance (aroma) and treatment (therapy).

Aromatherapy means 'treatment using scents'. It is a holistic treatment of caring for the body with scents that causes a psychological reaction. An example of these scents are Lavender, Lemon, Neroli and Peppermint.

Essential oils, the most potent of aromatics, are delivered in many ways including but not limited to, the bath, massage, steam inhalations, direct inhalations or are diffused to scent an entire room.

Aromatherapy is used for relaxation, stimulation, depression, pain (whether physical or psychological), for skin care, to alleviate tension, combat fatigue, and/or to invigorate the entire body, as a few primary examples. Essential oils can also affect mood, alleviate fatigue, reduce anxiety and promote relaxation. When inhaled, they work on the brain and nervous system through stimulation of the olfactory nerves. Essential oils are not the only sources to deliver 'aroma', but they are the most common.

Essential oils are aromatic essences extracted from plants, flowers, trees, fruits, bark, grasses and seeds with distinctive therapeutic, psychological, and physiological properties, which can improve and at times prevent illness.

The story of the 'Toulouse Thieves' would be a good example of prevention. “As the bubonic plague decimated Europe in the year 1413, four thieves were captured and charged with robbing the dead and dying victims of Toulouse. When the thieves were tried, the magistrate offered leniency if they would reveal how they resisted contracting the infection as they performed their gruesome acts. The four thieves explained that they were perfumers and spice traders and told of a special concoction of aromatic herbs, including cloves and rosemary, that they rubbed on their hands, ears, and temples.” Like any good tale, the story actually has another version, and probably the more specifically true one! “During the gruesome days of the Black Death in France in 1628, the homes of the dying were being ransacked. At first the authorities did nothing, assuming that the foolish thieves would die of the plague. However the robberies continued and people began to wonder why the robbers had not become ill and died. It was then that the authorities began to pursue the thieves...to discover the secret of their immunity to the Plague. Four thieves were eventually caught and were condemned to be burned at the stake for their crimes. However the king of France offered to mitigate their sentence if they would reveal their secret in how they had been avoiding death by the plague. The thieves told all, revealing a secret blend of aromatic herbs steeped in vinegar. All four thieves were then hung. Their lasting legacy is this tonic which has powerful anti-viral and anti-bacterial properties and is still used in France today."

Note the basis of the real 'tonic' was vinegar, although it also consisted of an infusion of rosemary, thyme, sage, and lavender. Some accounts claim clove was a featured element. As you will learn later, modern day technology has shown that actual handlers of essential oils Rosemary, Basil, & Oregano did not tend to get the avian flu as it passed through, and affected others that lived with them. The 'why not' is still being studied. I dub these the 'Italian' oils because it is easier to remember and sounds like a salad dressing.

A few of the oils mentioned are extremely potent, so know your oils before you begin trying to make your own blends. “Essential oils are so potent--imagine dropping a drop of food color into a glass of water. Just one drop affects the whole glass. Well, essential oils tend to be far more potent than that." There are approximately 200 essential oils. Most of these oils have antiseptic properties; some are antiviral, anti-inflammatory, pain-relieving, antidepressant and expectorant. Other properties of the essential oils which are taken advantage of in aromatherapy are their stimulation, relaxation, digestion improvement, and diuretic properties. Essential oils are even used to repel bugs.

Historically, Citronella has been touted as the 'bug' repeller, but that could be just excellent marketing by growers of Citronella. Citronella is a “Cinderella" in my lab, hardly ever used. The truth is bugs do not like most essential oils. Lemongrass smells so much better, so that is my essential oil of choice for outdoor candle making or scent. It also has the strongest 'throw' of most any essential oil. Synthetically made oils do not work, they just seem to be missing 'energy'. Aromatherapy in general, is one of the fastest growing fields in alternative medicine. It's widely used at home, clinics and hospitals for a variety of applications such as pain relief for women in labor pain, relieving pain caused by the side effects of chemotherapy undergone by cancer patients, and rehabilitation of cardiac patients. Aromatherapy is already slowly spreading into the mainstream. In Japan, engineers are incorporating aroma systems into new buildings. In one such application, the scent of lavender and rosemary is pumped into the customer area to calm down the waiting customers, while the perfumes from lemon and eucalyptus are used in the bank teller counters to keep the staff alert. There are many impressive studies on increased productivity like this which we will discuss later on. ~Revised by Deborah Dolen & Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter III by Deborah Dolen

2011-09-03T09:13:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter III by Deborah Dolen
History of Aromatherapy
Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011
Aromatherapy has been around for 6000 years or more. The Greeks, Romans, and ancient Egyptians all used aromatherapy oils. The Egyptian physician Imhotep, recommended fragrant oils for bathing, massage, and for embalming their dead nearly 6000 years ago. Imhotep is the Egyptian god of medicine and healing. Hippocrates, the father of modern medicine, used aromatherapy baths and scented massage. He used aromatic fumigations to rid Athens of the plague.

The modern era of aromatherapy is dated in 1920 when the French chemist, René Maurice Gattefossé coined the term aromatherapy for the therapeutic use of essential oils. Rene started investigating the effect of other essential oils for healing and for their psychotherapeutic benefits.

During World War II, the French army surgeon, Dr. Jean Valnet, used essential oils as antiseptics. Later, Madame Marguerite Maury elevated aromatherapy as a holistic therapy. She started prescribing essential oils as a remedy for her patients. She is also credited with the modern use of essential oils in massage.

Aromatherapy works best when used on the mind and body simultaneously.

How Does Aromatherapy Work?

Essential oils stimulate the powerful sense of smell. It's known that odors we smell have a significant impact on how we feel. In dealing with patients who have lost the sense of smell, doctors have found that a life without fragrance can lead to high incidence of psychiatric problems such as anxiety and depression. Studies with brain wave frequency have shown that smelling lavender increases alpha waves in the back of the head, which are associated with relaxation. Fragrance of Jasmine increases beta waves in the front of the head, which are associated with a more alert state. Neroli is offered to women in labor to help calm the feeling of trauma. We have the capability to distinguish 10,000 different smells. It is believed that smells enter through cilia (the fine hairs lining the nose) to the limbic system, the part of the brain that controls our moods, emotions, memory and learning. Scientific studies have also shown that essential oils contain chemical components that can exert specific effects on the mind and body.

mistry of esential oils are complex but generally they include alcohols, esters, ketones, aldehydes, and terpenes. Each essential oil contains as much as 100 chemical components, which together exert a strong effect on the whole person. Depending on which component is predominating in an oil, the oils act differently. For example, some oils are relaxing, some soothe you down, some relieve your pain, etc. Then there are oils such as Lemon and Lavender, which adapt to what your body needs and to that situation. (These are called 'adaptogenic'). The mechanism in which these essential oils act on us is not very well understood. What is understood is their effect on our mind and emotions. They leave no harmful residues. They enter into the body either by absorption or inhalation. The studies below demonstrate the powerful psychological impact aromatherapy can have on work productivity: A fragrance company in Japan conducted studies to determine the effects of smell on people. They pumped different fragrances in an area where a number of keyboard entry operators were stationed and monitored the number of mistakes made as a function of the smell in the air. The results were as follows: When exposed to lavender oil fragrance (a relaxant) the keyboard typing errors dropped 20 percent. When exposed to jasmine (an uplifting fragrance) the errors dropped 33 percent. When exposed to lemon fragrance (a sharp, refreshing stimulant) the mistakes fell by a whopping 54 percent! ~Revised by Deborah Dolen & Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter IV by Deborah Dolen Safety Issues

2011-09-02T04:05:00.000-07:00

Safety Issues of Essential Oils

The best course of action is always prevention. Meaning, do not allow essential oils in the hands of inexperienced people. Keep your essential oils out of reach of minors. Some smell so good, there have been reports of minors determining it smelled good enough to drink. Orange essential oil would be a good example.

Transference is not hard. For example, you could get a micro amount of Cinnamon on your hands and not realize it until you rub your eye. If you live to talk about it, chances are you will never forget that experience. If you get the caustic type essential oils on your skin, all you really can do is rinse, rinse, rinse with cool water, or saline solution if it's in your eyes, and follow with milk. For this reason, most people working with essential oils keep an open bottle of saline within reach. This is because it is awfully hard to get a seal off when you are in pain and busy trying to see. Rinsing should continue for a good fifteen minutes.

Here is another great example. One night my babysitter decided to get into my lab and make bath salts with Lemon grass essential oil for her boyfriend. She made him bath salts. She never told me. I found out when I got a panicked phone call that her boyfriend felt like his body was burning off-with emphasis on some "parts." The liability could have been incredible, even though she basically stole the ingredients. I had a duty to keep them locked up since there was no warning on them.

Another prime example is 'complacency', the root of all evil. Getting carried away is easy to do, if you are used to throwing a liberal amount of Lavender or Rosemary essential oil in the bath. Grabbing the wrong bottle to use in my bath--I have done this at least THREE times in my life. In all cases I was exhausted and blindly grabbing from where the Lavender “should” have been. The color of the bottles were the same. I cannot begin to describe the agony of putting straight Fennel essential oil, by mistake, in the tub. Another time straight Lemon grass essential oil and I actually made the Fennel mistake twice. Flushing for over ten minutes with water was all I could do, although I did wobble off to make a baking soda paste in hopes to balance the PH. I cannot say the baking soda helped--but it kept me distracted. I still walked funny for a few days--it burned my thighs and any area submersed in the water, so they did burn me. Pay attention and do not get complacent or carried away with essential oils. Know what you are working with--usually very potent stuff, and they are all very different. Just because Lavender is 'user friendly' does not mean they all are. ~Revised by Deborah Dolen Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter V by Deborah Dolen Essential Oil Toxicity

2011-09-01T13:00:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter V Essential Oil Toxicity

The first thing you should about essential oils is which ones are toxic. Most students learn this last, such as myself--and they need to know it first. You may be surprised what is considered toxic. The web is overflowing with 'recipes' and 'formulas' that are fairly ignorant to what is toxic and why. Pennyroyal and Wintergreen are all too often seen in web recipes. They should not appear in any with great words of caution and dilution. This does not mean the author of any 'recipe' knows what they are doing. In fact, just the opposite. Some essential oils can overwhelm the kidneys and liver and shut them down.

If used as recommended, and under the care of a qualified practitioner, aromatherapy is very safe. Please remember that essential oils are very concentrated. Do not use too much. (Too much is not better in the case of essential oils). Also, please be wary of any allergies people may have to essential oils. (Try on a small spot to see whether there is any allergic reactions before exposing the whole body). Caution is particularly recommended for patients who are pregnant, have allergies, high blood pressure or epilepsy. Be careful with young children or babies.

If you accidentally spill the essential oils on your skin or get any in your eye, wash it off immediately with whole milk. Milk with some fat in it is best for reducing irritation and removing the oil actually in the eye. You may also use olive oil or other vegetable oil to resolve any issues if you are experiencing a burning sensation which would be possible with oils like Peppermint.

Watch out for inflamed skin if you use essential oils. If you consume the oil by accident, drink a lot of milk, eat soft bread, and go to the nearest poison control center for appropriate action. Oral consumption of aromatic oils are strongly discouraged unless you are under the care and supervision of an experienced practitioner. Many of these essential oils are very toxic. You should not apply the undiluted essential oil on your body as these are very concentrated and you may experience discomfort. The exception to this is Lavender oil which can be applied safely in the undiluted form for burns and insect bites.

It is a very good idea to keep your eyes closed while inhaling the aromatic oil. This helps build up your imagery which enhances the effect of the essential oil. It also prevents the "fumes" from irritating the eyes at close range. Don't apply any oils close to your eyes. Essential oils are very potent, some are only toxic at high levels. In general, here are the usual suspects, I have included the Latin names to avoid any confusion: Almond, bitter (Prunus amygdalus var. amara) Inula (Inula graveolens) Khella (Ammi visnaga) Mugwort (Artemesia vulgaris) Pennyroyal (Mentha pelugium) Sassafras (Sassafras albidum) Thuja (Thuja occidentalis) Wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens) Bitter Almond is a delicious scent, my favorite scent of all essential oils.

That is until I learned that particular essential oil is essentially cyanide. In fact, it is better to say that Cyanide smells like almonds. The bitter almond, soaked first in water, is a common way authors poison their fictional characters. The bitter almond makes an irresistible Christmas cookie. The bitter almond is shorter and fatter than the sweet almond. The sweet almond does not create cyanide.

Sassafras is another beloved essential oil adults will say they cherished as a child, but it is toxic. Wintergreen, another refreshing scent--is also toxic. Sweet Birch smells very much like Wintergreen, or Ben Gay, and is highly toxic to the liver when absorbed through the skin. Both Wintergreen and Sweet Birch contain methyl salicylate. Methyl salicylate is a wintergreen-scented chemical found in various over-the-counter products, including muscle ache creams as an anti-inflammatory. A marvelous essential oil, we will use, but with caution. Overdose from methyl salicylate occurs when someone accidentally or intentionally take more than the normal or recommended amount of a product containing this substance.

Here is an example when people think "more is better." A seventeen year old athlete died in 2007 from applying far too much Ben Gay all over her body. Here are the symptoms of overdose. Click here for the story of the athlete. Pennyroyal is another essential oil you may hear used in recipes, is poisonous because it does not take much to shut the liver down. Fairly inexpensive, Pennyroyal is an attractive alternative to women seeking abortion because of the minimal cost; they can buy herbs to brew an infusion, drink it in the privacy of their own homes and in a maximum of a few days the pregnancy will be aborted. The dosage to abort is not far from the dosage to kill the adult, so it is very, very dangerous, beyond the fact it is illegal.

Other Essential Oil Top Considerations: Do not use the following essential oils if you have: High blood pressure: Do not use Hyssop, Rosemary, Sage or Thyme. · Epilepsy: Do not use Sweet Fennel, Hyssop, Sage, Rosemary and Wormwood. Skin Irritation: Allspice, Basil, Bay, birch, Bitter Almond, Black Pepper, Cassia, Cinnamon Leaf, Cinnamon Bark, Citronella, Clove bud, Costus, Cumin, Fennel, Fir Needle, Ginger, Lemon, Lemon Grass, Lemon Verbena, Melissa, Myrrh, Oak Moss, Orange, Peppermint, Oregano, Parsley seed, Pimento Berry, Pine, Tagetes, Red and Wild Thyme and Wintergreen. Most of these require large amounts to burn--but Cinnamon and Cassia only take a drop to irritate. The following essential oils will make your skin more sensitive to sunlight: all Citrus oils, Angelica, Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Orange and Lemon Verbena. If essential oils get into your eyes immediately flush with cold milk or vegetable oil to dilute. If stinging persists, seek medical attention. If undiluted essential oils get onto your hands use cream or vegetable oil to dilute and wash with soap and warm water. Repeat this process if necessary. Essential oils that are safe in pregnancy include: chamomile, jasmine, lavender, Neroli, Rose and ylang-ylang. Notice they are all floral, so this can be an easier way to remember essential pills safe for pregnancy. ~Revised by Deborah Dolen & Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter VI by Deborah Dolen

2011-08-27T10:20:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VI Adulteration & Dilution of Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Adulteration and dilution of essential oils to increase profit, like anything in today’s society, brokers are looking for a way to save a buck and stretch a penny. The area of essential oils is no different, and in fact, not regulated. All you can do is buy from a reputable 'house' who is published and would risk their reputation if they were ever caught cutting the product. When a company has a large customer base, you know those customers are educated and would just 'know' if standards began falling. I do buy from such a company who services the big name Perfume & Flavour houses. Flavour cannot be adulterated with low end chemicals or it would be obvious very fast. It took me several years to secure that supplier, because few people want to reveal their source. I also secured a few more back-up suppliers in 2007 so I am not dependent on the great price fluctuations of my first supplier. Even if a vendor did not lower standards, often they have no clue if the broker they bought from did dilute. The country of origin is typically the first consideration.

Natural health food stores? You can forget it. Most are 10% EO and the rest carrier oil. The following are some examples of what has gone on in the industry circa ten years ago: Today much of the lavender oil sold in the US is from the hybrid called 'lavadin', grown and distilled in China, Russia, France, and Tasmania. It's brought into France where it is cut with synthetic linalyl acetate to improve the fragrance. Then, propylene glycol, DEP, or DOP (solvents that have no smell but add volume) are added. From there it's sold in the US as lavender oil. Often lavandin is heated to evaporate the camphor, and then is further adulterated with synthetic linalyl acetate. Most consumers don’t know the difference and are happy to buy this type of lavender oil for $7 to $10 per half ounce in health food stores, beauty salons, grocery and department stores, and through mail order. This is one of the reasons why it's very important to know about the integrity of the company or vendor from which you purchase your essential oils. Another great example of a commonly adulterated oil is Frankincense. The Frankincense resin that is sold in Somalia costs between $30,000 and $35,000 per ton. A great deal of time, 12 hours or more, is required to properly steam-distill this essential oil from the resin, making Frankincense essential oil extremely expensive.

Frankincense essential oil that sells for $25 per ounce or less is cheaply distilled with gum resins, alcohol, or other solvents, thus leaving the essential oil laden with harmful chemicals. Sadly, when these cut, synthetic and adulterated oils cause rashes, burns, or other irritations, people wonder why they have not gotten the benefit they had expected and then conclude that essential oils don’t have much value. Some commercial statistics show that one large US corporation uses twice as much of a particular essential oil than is grown and produced in the entire world! Where are these 'phantom' essential oils coming from? In France, production of true lavender oil (Lavendula angustifolia) dropped from 87 tons in 1967 to only 12 tons in 1998. During this same period the worldwide demand for lavender oil grew over 100 percent. Where did essential oil marketers obtain enough lavender to meet the demand? They probably used a combination of synthetic and adulterated oils. There are huge chemical companies on the east coast of the US that specialize in creating synthetic chemicals that mimic every common essential oil. For every kilogram of pure essential oil that is produced, it is estimated there are between 10 and 100 kilograms of synthetic created.

Adulterated and mislabeled essential oils present dangers for consumers. One woman who had heard of the ability of Lavender to heal burns used 'lavender oil' purchased from her local health food store when she spilled boiling water on her arm. The pain intensified and the burn worsened, so later she complained that lavender oil was worthless for healing burns. When her lavender oil was analyzed, it was found to be lavadin, the hybrid lavender that is chemically very different from pure Lavendula angustifolia. Lavandin contains high levels of camphor (12-18 percent) and can itself burn the skin. In contrast, true lavender contains virtually no camphor and has burn-healing agents not found in lavadin. Adulterated oils that are cut with synthetic extenders can be very detrimental, causing rashes, burning, and skin irritations. Petrochemical solvents, such as dipropylene glycol and diethylphthalate, can all cause allergic reactions, besides being devoid of any therapeutic benefits. Some people assume that because an essential oil label states that the essential oil is '100% pure' that it will not burn their skin. This is not true. Some pure essential oils may cause skin irritation if applied undiluted. Like Oregano, when applied to the skin of some people, may cause severe reddening. Citrus and spice oils, like Orange, Clove, and Cinnamon, may also produce rashes. Even the terpenes in conifer oils, like Pine, may cause irritation in some people. Some writers have claimed that a few compounds, when isolated from the essential oil and tested in the lab, can exert toxic effects.

Even so-called 'Nature Identical' essential oils (structured essential oils that have been chemically duplicated using 5 to 15 of the essential oil’s primary chemical compounds in synthetic form) can produce unwanted side effects or toxicities. Isolated compounds may be toxic. However, pure essential oils, in most cases, are not. This is because natural essential oils that are properly steam-distilled contain hundreds of different compounds, some of which balance and counteract each others effects. Another example is the following: Many tourists in Egypt are eager to buy local essential oils, especially lotus oil. Vendors convince tourists that the oils are 100 percent pure, going so far as to touch a lighted match to the neck of the oil container to show that the oil is not diluted with alcohol or other petrochemical solvents. However, this test provides no reliable indicator of purity. Many synthetic compounds can be added to an essential oil that are not flammable, including propylene glycol. Or flammable solvents can be added to a vegetable base that will cause it to catch fire. Some natural essential oils that are high in terpenes can be flammable. A great example is Orange essential oil which in amounts over 32 ounces are considered hazardous. More flammable than in amounts under 32 ounces. These cases do not mean every company in France dilutes. Certain brokers get a 'name' and are not around long. In purchasing we generally know who is doing what and it is an ever revolving door. We actually prefer Australia, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, and the U.S.. Ways to Test Essential Oil Quality Gas Chromatography / Mass Spectroscopy (GC/MS) is the most frequently used technique for analyzing essential oil composition. This method of testing requires an analytical component, a gas chromatograph, coupled with a detection component, a mass spectrometer. Since this is quite costly, let’s explore some other ways to test the quality of essential oils. Reviewing the “source” is the first thing to consider. Some countries are infamous for putting out low end essential oils. If it is coming from a local health food store, you can be 90% sure it is diluted. Knowing what they should look and smell like is the second most viable way to assess. Our students can secure little sample vials of the most popular just to keep on hand as a point of reference. ~Revised by Deborah Dolen Group 7.18.2008 via Wiki.

Aromatherapy Chapter VII by Deborah Dolen Storage and Life Span of Essential Oils

2011-08-09T11:33:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VII Storage & Life Span of Essential Oils by Deborah Dolen

Like a fine wine, some oils get better with age! These include clove, rose, patchouli, sandalwood, spikenard, myrrh and vetivert improve as they age, but others, notably the citrus oils, oxidize and can become irritating and toxic with age.

Vetivert, I've had for several years, has a gorgeous deep sandalwood scent. At the time of this writing, Sandalwood is $1,500 a pound and Vetivert $100 a pound. Essential oils high in antioxidants, such as carrot and black cumin--should also last for many years. Fading is the only affect I have noticed over many years. Some essential oils are more delicate than others. Lemon and clary sage seem to fade a little after a year, but lavender, tea tree, and clove for instance seem to hang in for two or three.

Most important to the life span of essential oils is the quality you buy in the first place, and then how you store it. Tightly sealed dark glass bottles stored in a cool dark place. Metal bottles, I really like--do tend to corrode inside after 3 years. I am sent professional grade metal containers that are treated and do not do that. Glass is the ideal vessel as it does not absorb the oils. Plastic is not going to work unless it is a non-petrochemical composition and there is one I like and used only for small amounts. Essential oils when stored in fully topped up, tightly sealed, light impervious containers in a cool place 68 degrees Fahrenheit (under 20 degrees Centigrade), preferably under nitrogen, can last from 6 months to 2 years.

Oxygen degrades oils - causing some to lose beneficial properties and causing some constituents to become irritants or sensitizers (especially citrus & conifer oils), so keep bottles tightly closed and out of direct light. It may be advisable to rebottle to smaller bottles as oil is used to minimize the headspace (thereby minimizing contact with oxygen).

Bottles do not need to be colored or dark, that is more of a myth. What color is your bottle? Unfortunately many people have succumbed to the fear mongering and propaganda put forth by the makers of colored glass when it comes to storing essential oils. The amber glass makers will tell you that amber is best, the green glass makers will tell you that green is best, etc. The truth is that most essential oils are photochemically inactive in the visible region and reactive in the ultra-violet (UV) region of the electromagnetic spectrum. Since UV light of high enough energy to cause photochemical reactions in most organic molecules is absorbed (not transmitted) by normal glass, regardless of color, it makes no difference if the oils are in brown, blue, green, purple or whatever color glass. Of course there are a few exceptions, like with the chamazulene containing oils (blue chamomile, blue yarrow, blue tansy, etc.) that you would not want to store in colorless bottles for long periods under heavy lighting conditions. This is because chamazulene has strong absorption in the VISIBLE region of the spectrum (thus the intense dark blue color of these oils) and so it is the lower energy visible light and not just UV light that can significantly effect these oils. But even so, thermal degradation and reaction with oxygen are the biggest enemies of these blue oils, which is why all of our chamazulene containing oils are refrigerated and stored under nitrogen, maintaining the nice dark blue color when you receive your shipment (many times you will find that other suppliers selling these oils will ship them after they have turned dark green due to oxidation from improper storage).

I know many people will still believe they have to keep their oils in drab brown bottles, even after reading this, but I can tell you that based on the research I have done and famous chemists I hang with, it makes no difference what color the bottle is for most the oils. You can extend the life of your oils with ROE, Rosemary Oleoresin extract--which is not to be confused with Rosemary Essential Oil. ROE slows down the oxidation process dramatically, as well as a pinch of Dendtritic salt. ROE is a dark green, syrupy looking ingredient and can be used at under half a percent (max) to your total. These days I like just adding vitamin e and dendritic salt. I am no longer really crazy about ROE.

I store my more precious essential oils in a wine cooler. This ensures a dark and cool place and stays at about 62 degrees F, about 62 celsius. Plus they can be on "display."

Flickr: Your Photostream
Flickr: Your Photostream

Chapter VIII by Deborah Dolen Methods of Distillation

2011-08-03T07:41:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter VIII Methods of Distillation

I was talking to a friend I highly idolized as an essential oil guru. I had not talked to her in years. I was saying how beautiful the Lime essential oil was from Mexico these days, and what a lovely shade of green it was. She said “Oh, what was the method of extraction?” And I happily replied, "Expeller pressed," wondering why she did not know that. She hesitated and then pronounced “It cannot be real essential oil--they are only steam distilled.” It was at that moment time stood still--and a creepy feeling she did not know squat after all of these years. To me, it was a very basic concept--that some essential oils are expressed (pressed). Of course I had advanced a lot over the years we did not speak. Her professed knowledge had formerly been her power over me, a reason to have my attention, which I never understood until that moment.

Standards and definitions regarding essential oils are defined best by NAHA. NAHA, pretty much the governing organization in Aromatherapy and defines an essential oil as the following:

"The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) in their Vocabulary of Natural Materials (ISO/D1S9235.2) defines an essential oil as follows: "An essential oil is a product made by distillation with either water or steam or by mechanical processing of citrus rinds or by dry distillation of natural materials. Following the distillation, the essential oil is physically separated from the water phase."

Dr. Brian Lawrence, another expert in essential oils, states "For an essential oil to be a true essential oil, it must be isolated by physical means only. The physical methods used are distillation (steam, steam/water and water) or expression (also known as cold pressing, a unique feature for citrus peel oils). There is one other method of oil isolation specific to a very limited number of essential oil plants. This is a maceration/distillation. In the process, the plant material is macerated in warm water to release the enzyme-bound essential oil. So, Dr. Lawrence is not big on chemical extraction but some essential oils can oly be extracted with chemicals.

Examples of oils produced by maceration are onion, garlic, wintergreen, bitter almond, etc. What is NOT an Essential oil is a CO2 extract, a halohydrocarbon extract or an empyreumatic distillate."

So, this revelation with my former friend was worse, because I had just hired her back as a teacher. Not long after her first main lessons were late, I got the idea they were not forthcoming. How something is distilled is important, because the goal is to avoid solvents as a method of extraction. When we discuss DMSO you will better understand the solvent issue--and absorption of impure substances into the blood stream.

Basically you can make your own essential oils at home, but witotu the right equiptment they will not be near as strong as professional grade. Whether that is pressed or steam distilled. When making essential oils at home, maceration is pretty much the only method. Maceration is just bruising herbs at the peak of their freshness and soaking them in an oil-such as fractionated coconut oil-that will accept much of the precious oils. This is done over time, usually three days in the sun-straining and re-loading fresh herbs back into the oil. I do mine several times over a few week period for maximum extraction. Even better, learn to grow your own herbs.

When making my own macerations, I will usually order in a professional grade essential oil from that same herb and compliment my blend with a little of the real stuff. Lavender would be a great example. Many lavender festivals grow their own, but often order out any lavender notes they cannot achieve or just for more supplies than they can grow.

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Aromatherapy - IX by Deborah Dolen

2011-07-31T12:10:00.000-07:00

Aromatherapy - Chapter IX by Deborah Dolen Attars, Compounds & Hydrosols by Deborah Dolen
Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics
Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011

Once you learn the beauty of essential oils, you will learn about more affordable 'by products' of the manufacturing process. Run off water is known as a 'Hydrosol'. Examples are Rose Water, Lavender Water, Neroli and my personal favorites Roman Chamomile and Witch Hazel hydrosols. Hydrosols tend to run 10% the price of the actual oil, and a great way to experience an oil--such as Neroli and Chamomile, that are ordinarily cost prohibitive. I use hydrosols in componding skin toners, in some perfume formulas, in lotion and witch hazel for medicinal preparations.

Hydrosols are great to spritz on the skin as they are or used in the water phase of lotion/soap making. Hydrosols can even be used to wet clay for a facial mask. Here is NAHA’s definition of a hydrosol which I find sufficient:

"Hydrosols or hydrolats are the isolated distillation condensate waters, either intentionally produced or produced as a by-product to essential oil production, where aromatic materials are steam or hydro-distilled. Hydrosols are used by aromatherapists and are used in nebulisers, cosmetics & shampoos and to a limited extent in foodstuffs."

Popular hydrosols include Lavender Water, as discussed above, Orange flower water [Neroli,] Kewda water etc. In India for example, kewda water (produced from male spadices of Pandanus odoratissmus flowers) is used for flavouring syrups, soft drinks & Moghlai cuisine. Little chemical data exists on the chemical make-up of many hydosols, but an interesting paper by Platto A. & Roberts D. (2001) ["The Aroma Quality of Lavender Water: a Comparative Study" Perf. & Flav. 26(3), 44-64] compared lavender waters from several different origins & determined (amongst other things) that genuine lavender water distillation condensate could be differentiated from reconstituted water (diluted essential oil in water) by the absence of acetate esters.

Storing Hydrosols, Attars or Compounds

Some genuine 100% natural hydrosols are storage-stable, and the natural bacteriostatic/fungicidal properties associated with many essential oils are enough to maintain product integrity (for a short shelf-life period at least). However, wherever natural products with a high water content are produced, opportunistic micro-organisms may become problematic. Floral waters are not the only by product of essential oil manufacturing. Plant waxes is a good example. Orange wax (used a lot by Burt’s Bees) is a wax.Waxes – Rose, Jasimine and Tuberorse are good examples of floral waxes. Floral waxes tend to be an unflattering brown, so they are not usually relied upon for color. They run approx $30 USD a pound, as do floral waters and this is very ballpark.Attars are super expensive “condensed" type oils, such as Attar of Rose. Since that runs over $3,000 a pound, we do not discuss it at this juncture. Used mainly in the flavor industry, Absolutes are also fairly cost prohibitive. We will address absolutes in advanced study.

I keep almost all of my precious essential materials in a wine cooler than runs about 62 degrees F, [16.66 C.] This also provides are darker environment.

SOURCES

Platto A. & Roberts D. (2001) The Aroma Quality of Lavender Water: a Comparative Study" Perf. & Flav. 26(3), 44-64]

Aromatherapy - X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils

2011-07-24T06:08:00.000-07:00

Aromatherapy - Chapter X by Deborah Dolen Top 12 Essential Oils

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter X Top Twelve Essential Oils Everyone lists their “top ten” differently--perhaps depending on what sells the most (could be what is most affordable), what they learned first, or simply what they can access easiest in their location. I can’t help it, these are twelve I depend on. I am delineating my 'Top Twelve’ based on what we will use the most in my daily life. Ones that do double and triple duty. You can bet Lavender, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus are on every list. Later we will get into exotic and interesting essential oils. This is just a list of my favorite primary essential oils, the ones I would want in my family medical bag, and their top contributions and attributes. Dosage and application will be in the next chapter.

Black Cumin oil--I find to be a most potent analgesic and anti-inflammatory drug. Black cumin oil is also very high in antioxidants and excellent against bacteria-including staph. ~

Blue Chamomile--Anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, nerve calming. Great for IBS, nerve disorders, insomnia. Perfect mixed with lavender for sweet dreams. ~

Clary Sage--Sedative, calming, relaxing, euphoric, anti-wrinkle, depression, migraine, stress and nervous disorders. ~

Clove--Perfect for numbing mouth, canker, dental issues & rinse. Antiviral, antibiotic, antiseptic. ~

Eucalyptus--Antiseptic, anti-viral, decongestant, stimulating, refreshing and purifying. Used for respiratory disorders, flu, body aches, insect bites, immune-booster, and insect deterrent. ~

Geranium, Rose--Excellent for hemorrhoids-numbing/healing, skin eruptions, PMS, calming, reflecting. ~

Lavender--Antiseptic, antidepressant, calming, stimulating (in higher concentrations), sedative, insect deterrent. Uses include acne, athlete’s foot, dandruff, burns, boils, cold sores, sunburn, wounds, bites, stings, inflammation, asthma, flu, headache, insomnia, hypertension, PMS, vertigo, migraine, shock, nervous tension and stress, to name a few. ~

Lemon--Antiseptic, sedative, stimulant, astringent. Uplifting, used for acne, oily skin, cold sores, respiratory disorders, colds, flu, fever, arthritis, insect bites and as a grease cutting agent. ~

Lemongrass -- Lemongrass smells like lemon essential oil than lemon essential oil itself. It is my #2 favorite because bugs cannot stand it. After heavy rains or just standing water near my house-I drop a few pipettes full of this and I do not see a mosquito in miles! No-see-ums {gnats} also share the same disdain. I cannot stand the smell of Citronella and find it way over rated. Citronella only became famous after some good marketers were stuck with fields of it - years ago - in India. As far as pets, I may put one drop on the nape of my dogs neck and fleas and ticks do not like it either. I put it in my mop water and air vents. Luckily people like the scent and this includes both genders. Essential oils are so very powerful be areful when using them on pets. So put Lemongrass on your list because it is the most utilitartian essential oil on this list.

Peppermint--Soothing to muscles, rashes, digestion, warm and tingly. Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, digestive aid, helps muscle aches, acne, respiratory disorders, colds, flu, fever. ~

Rosemary--Antiseptic, antiviral, astringent, analgesic, anti-fungal, circulatory stimulant. Helps acne, dandruff, oily hair, insect deterrent, stimulates scalp and hair growth, diuretic, muscle pain, respiratory disormune- boosting, nervous anxiety and stress. ~

Tea Tree--Anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antibacterial, antiviral, antiseptic. Helps with acne, athlete’s foot, nail fungus, burns, cold sores, warts, infected wounds, colds, flu, fever, immune-boosting, ~ Ylang Ylang--Aphrodisiac, antidepressant, antiseptic, euphoric, nervous sedative, circulatory stimulant. Comparable in performance to Neroli, (orange Blossom). I use tea tree in an ethanol base to spray my shower and eliminate mold. Great because other pests do not care for it either - so Tea Tree does double duty.

Aromatherapy - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen Cooking w/ Essential Oils

2011-07-17T07:10:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XI by Deborah Dolen

Cooking with Essential Oils

Essentials in the Kitchen - Cooking with Essential Oils Most of our use in cooking with essential oils, such as Rose and/or Lavender Jelly, will simply be stirring them into salts, sugar, fats (such as butter, ice cream) and jellies. I feel this is the prudent way to become familiar with the use of essential oils in the kitchen as well as the most delicate approach to enjoying them. Keep in mind you will be using the amount on the end of a tooth pick for most. Using essential oils 'clicked' in my head one day when I was looking at $20 a pound 'Gourmet' cooking salt that was from France, and another for $32 a pound from Spain, wishing I could buy them all. (That is half a kilo for our neighbors to the north and across the Atlantic.) I ended up buying a $6 a pound 'Bolivian Rose' sea salt because it was a pretty pink--and the only one I could afford. The pink in the Bolivian salt comes from shrimp brine, and in Hawaii the pink originates from volacnic ash. Gourmet salts such as these can be full of some interesting nutrients. But they are expensive and "afford" is the operative word here. I was thrilled the Rose salt did seem to make the food 'taste' better, although we ARE funny creatures. The mind is a VERY powerful thing indeed. For all I know the salt was scraped off a camels ass with a Capital One credit card.

The salt from France called 'Fleur de Sell' proclaimed to have some natural touch of 'lavender' or 'flower' and that's when the use of Essential oils really went rampant in my head. Beyond stirring in fleurs--we could probably stir in a drop of black pepper EO and call it 'Peppercorn eau de Salt.' TRUST we will make some fascinating salt blends, so the main thing you need is a quality sea salt and totally cute containers to keep our Gourmet salt in sight! You can even use small mason jars if you have them. Over time the salt may corrode them though. We will use a forum to share recipes and consult when we are cooking for the holidays.

For a moment, let’s see what other authorities say about cooking with essential oils and they are seriously talking about COOKING with them. I may opt to err on the side of caution, but let’s go ahead and read 'Menkit Prince', the respected authority, and author of The Essential Oils Cookbook and a bit from the Young Living people.

Cooking with Essential Oils, Menkit Prince, being concentrated, the essential oils contain virtually all of the plants healing nutrients, oxygenating molecules, amino acid precursors, coenzyme A factors, trace minerals, enzymes, vitamins, hormones and more. And because they are concentrated, essential oils are from 50 to 70 times more therapeutically potent than the herbs or plants they are derived from. A renaissance in the arena of food preparation is about to emerge. It is the exciting and innovative art of combining essential oils with food. The art of distilling essential oils from plants began 6,000 years ago with the ancient Egyptians. For those of you who are not quite sure what essential oils are, let me give you a brief explanation. Essential oils are the chemical constituents found in aromatic plants (plants are chemical factories) that exist to protect the plant from invading organisms and microbes; to help it heal from wounds; to carry nutrients to the plant cells (as the blood of humans does); to attract certain insects and repel others and so on. When plants are distilled (or cold-pressed in the case of citrus oils), the resulting essential oil is far more potent than when they are dried as herbs. Unlike dried herbs, which lose up to 90% of their healing nutrients and oxygen molecules, essential oils do not. Essential oils have a chemical structure that is similar to human cells and tissues. This makes essential oils compatible with human protein and enables them to be readily identified and accepted by the body. Many physicians, especially in France, are treating patients with essential oils and getting excellent results without the side effects of orthodox medicine.

One such doctor and author is Daniel Penoel M.D. Dr Penoel also recommends using therapeutic-grade essential oils in food preparation as they purify the body, enhance the immune system and generate endorphins (mood-elevators). In U.S.A. Dr Phillip Minton claims that eating pure essential oils can improve circulation, oxygenation and protect against heart disease, dementia and cancer. Not to mention their taste is fantastic! Essential oils can come from many different parts of the plants e.g. flowers, blossoms, fruit (skins), seeds, stems, leaves, roots, bark. Their tastes encompass tangy (citrus such as lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, mandarin, lime) spicy (cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger, black pepper, cardamom, cumin) floral (geranium, rose, lavender) herbaceous (oregano, basil, dill, rosemary, sage, tarragon, savory) and minty (peppermint, spearmint) to name just a few. Because they are so concentrated only tiny amounts (a drop or two) are required. Unlike fatty oils such as olive oil, flax oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, soybean oil, etc., essential oils contain no glycerol molecules that give a characteristic slippery texture and leave a greasy residue. Fatty oils and essential oils are different.

Distilled essential oils contain no fat whereas fatty oils are 100% fat. Instead, as we discussed above, essential oils are composed of hundreds of different molecules that are antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic and immune-stimulating. Since this is such a new field, many readers may be wondering whether or not ingesting essential oils is safe. Some oils have toxic components e.g. nutmeg oil contains myristicin and elemicin which are psychotropic. However taken in moderate amounts (a few drops per person) there is no toxic effect. In fact the LD50 (lethal dose for half the population) for an average adult would be 100mL nutmeg oil. For flavoring purposes no one in their right mind would use so much! Also, nutmeg oil is safer than whole nutmeg because the most toxic components in nutmeg are non-volatile. In the process of distillation, most of these components are evaporated off. Even though there have been cases of narcosis and collapse with just one whole nutmeg, people universally use nutmeg as food seasoning. Other oils contain toxic compounds (e.g. parsley, cinnamon, clove, basil, anise, fennel and tarragon oils) but used in moderation are safe.

Commonly used cooking ingredients similarly hold potential for harm when administered in high dosages e.g. table salt. But it would be an overreaction to say that salt should not be used in food. Can these toxic compounds accumulate in the body? The majority of oil molecules are terpines and terpenoids which are multiples of five carbon fragments. Since the body can only use food that can be broken down into two-carbon fragments, oils must be excreted by the body. Since they are not water-soluble, they are made more water soluble by various enzymes found in the liver. From there they are excreted by the kidney via urine. However, if an essential oil component is introduced to the body at a faster rate than the liver can convert it into a water-soluble form, liver toxicity can result. This could happen even if the mode of entry were not ingestion. (There have been reported cases of serious liver damage resulting from excessive skin application of eucalyptus oil). Again moderation is the key.

Some oils can be irritating if used directly on mucous membranes (cinnamon, lemongrass) but mixed evenly with food will pose no problem. Using cheap, adulterated oils is not recommended. I cannot overstress the importance of procuring only the highest grade essential oil with no toxic, synthetic chemicals, SD40 alcohol, propylene glycol (carcinogenic). How can you be sure? Contact the company and ask any of their oils are extracted with carbon dioxide, solvents or fabricated in a lab ("nature identical" oils). If possible, oils should be organic (especially citrus oils since citrus fruit may be sprayed with pesticides) and distilled at low temperatures with low pressure so that the oil is not fractured or burned and so that all the chemical consituents are extracted, giving a full-bodied, authentic taste. When using essential oils in food preparation it is better to stir them in at the end or when food has cooled because heat evaporates oils. Some oils, however are too strong and it is better to simmer them a little (e.g. oregano, rosemary, basil).

Another interesting consideration is that using essential oils in your kitchen can actually save money. Instead of buying a whole lemon, orange or bouquet of fresh herbs, a single drop of essential oil will yield as much flavor. Kept in a cool, dark place essential oils should last many years. (The oils found in the tomb of King Tutenkhamen were in immaculate condition even after thousands of years.) If you are still skeptical consider this: you are already eating essential oils. Every time you chew gum, eat confectionary, chocolates and even brush your teeth, essential oils were the flavoring agent. Every time you eat dishes simmered with dried or fresh oregano, basil etc. the characteristic flavor from the essential oil contained in the plant lingers on. So don't be afraid - jump in with abandon. A whole new gustatory experience awaits you. ~End of Prince Excerpt

Before we get into my Recipes for cooking with essential oils, let’s look at one more view point (they are not that many out there on this subject) By Andrew Pacholyk, MS. L.Ac. “Here is a list of Essential Oils Certified as Generally regarded as safe (GRAS) and Food Additives (FA) by the FDA. Angelica, Basil, Bergamot, Chamomile, Roman, Chamomile, German, Cinnamon Bark, Citrus rind (all), Clary Sage, Clove, Coriander, Dill, Eucalyptus glob., Frankincense, Galbanum, Geranium, Ginger, Grapefruit, Hyssop, Juniper, Jasmine, Laurus nobilis, Lavender, Lemon, Lemongrass, Lime, Melissa (lemonbalm), Marjoram, Myrrh, Myrtle, Nutmeg, Orange, Oregano, Patchouli, Pepper, Peppermint, Petitgrain, Pine, Rosemary, Rose, Savory, Sage, Sandalwood, Spearmint, Spruce, Tarragon, Tangerine, Thyme, Valerian, Vetiver, Ylang Ylang. (I am doubting the Thyme one--there are a few varieties…DRD)

The flavor of these herbs and fruits are concentrated in their volatile oils, which are extracted by different methods in order for us to benefit from them. With this many oils at our fingertips, making tasteful, mouthwatering culinary dishes can be fun and inventive. Here are some general guidelines for certain groups of oils: Fruity oils: such as lime, lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit and mandarin can add zest and a full flavor to drinks, desserts and sweet and sour recipes.

Because these are generally top note oils, they evaporate quickly so adding them into your recipes toward the end is recommended. Acrid or Spicy oils: such as black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, cumin and ginger are warming oils. A little of these oils go a long way. These are great oils for winter recipes or whenever you want to add a little spice to your food. They also are considered aphrodisiac oils. Cooling, Mint oils: such as mint, peppermint and spearmint are great in recipes that call for a hint of mint such as jams, jellies, sauces or in a cooling tea for reducing heat in the body. Floral oils: such as geranium, jasmine, lavender and rose are versatile and full-bodied in scent and essence.

It takes thousands of petals to produce an ounce of rose oil. Lavender oil is rich in scent and flavor and can be added to meats, desserts or any creative recipes you make. These floral oils can entice and bring out the best in any culinary adventure. Herbal oils: such as basil, dill, fennel, marjoram, mellisa, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, tarragon and thyme are rich and flavorful oils that only need a hint in any recipe to embody a herbaceous taste. When making recipes with essential oils, a little goes a long way. The rule of thumb is to add the oils toward the end of the simmering, baking or boiling process. The heat will evaporate the oils quickly; so in order to take advantage of the oils scent and flavor, adding them into the recipe at the last minutes prolongs the goodness. The possibilities for flavoring are endless.

The best way to try your creation with essential oils is through trial and error. It is recommended that 2-3 drops of oil in a recipe would have its greatest effect.

*The recipes are in the book. They will not line up properly here anyway.

SOURCES

http://www.amazon.com/Deborah-Dolen/e/B00457BI2S
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-chapter-xii-by-deborah.html
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/07/aromatherapy-xiii-by-deborah-dolen.html
http://open.salon.com/blog/deborah_dolen_1/2011/07/11/aromatherapy_-_chapter_i_-_by_deborah_dolen

Aromatherapy - Chapter XII by Deborah Dolen

2011-07-11T06:17:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XII

Cleaning with Essential Oils Cleaning with essential oils is a non-toxic way to clean the home while lifting your spirits at the same time! As we see below, the power and energy of an essential oil can be delivered through a variety of systems, alcohol (for disinfecting) and the most common cleaning medium-good old soap and water. Most products in the store shelves are not "soap" and you will not see the word "soap" on them. Some people even try to brand SLS as "natural soap" and it is not. As you may all be aware, I use my own organic liquid soap to clean almost everything. The brand name is Mabel's Miracle Liquid Castile Soap and is a plant vegetable based soap made with 100% organic olive oil. It's multipurpose and can be used as a gentle yet effective, fruit and vegetable wash, floor & counter cleaner, laundry soap, window wash, pet shampoo and even straight on the body as the world’s most gentle cleaner. Made in America, it's petrol-free, detergent-free, and completely biodegradable, with literally hundreds of uses. Products I design are never tested on animals, only on husbands.

To Use: The pump measures exactly one ounce for you. Half a pump would be half an ounce. An ounce in a gallon of water removes pesticides from fruits and vegetables. ½ an ounce for a sink full of dishes. 1/4 ounce in warm water cleans all your under garments. 1 ounce in a pail of water will clean your house and automobile. For extra heavy jobs cut it in half or use it straight. Pour some on a fabric stain and watch it disappear. Castile Soap will disappear naturally after it has done its job. Cleaning Tips (excerpts from Maid Holistic by Mabel White) Disinfecting We use alcohol 90% or higher to disinfect communicable areas, but not until it is cleaned with soapy Castile water.

Alcohol may disinfect (by making germs evaporate with it--sucking the life out of them), but it does not 'clean' an area. Alcohol is not really effective until it's all evaporated, so you need to wait a good five minutes to use an area after wiping it down with alcohol. No one in our lab has caught a cold or the flu in the two years since we started wiping down all common areas with basic alcohol, and prior to this practice it was musical germs and sick leave.

Any kind of 90 proof or higher of alcohol is okay; we use the stuff from the pharmacy, just regular rubbing alcohol if we do not have 190 Everclear on hand. Everclear is basically ethanol. You can add essential oils to alcohol giving it a great scent. Just add a couple of drops of Lavender, Tea Tree (which is a germ busting powerhouse in its own right) per 8 ounces of alcohol. You can even add Ylang Ylang, from the floral family; Lemon, Lime or Siberian Fir Needle essential oils may also be appealing candidates to scent your alcohol. In the autumn you could add a touch of orange and clove essential oils. You do not need to wash your hands as much as you do wipe down any areas of constant contact with other people. This means handles, keyboards, and phones. Most people do not "get" that 40% of viruses are tranmitted in our actual water supply - so if you are OCD about anything, exchange habits for wiping down communicable areas and using special wipes on your hands instead of tap water.

Laundry – Making Your Own Laundry Soap You can use Mabel's Liquid Castile as laundry soap, or any natural liquid soap in your 'green routine'. To clean laundry naturally use ¼ cup of liquid castile and one cup of a booster (baking soda--borax mix described below). You can add essential oils to the soap about to be used in the wash too! Lavender is a nice choice, Lemon a clean scent, or my favorite, 'Fresh Cut Grass', not an essential oil, per se--but an effective aromatherapy grounding scent. We use one pipette full, (1/10 of a ounce) although prudent people suggest only a few drops of essential oil. Either way is fine if it is mixed in the soap first, since the soap disperses the oil. Borax is natural and the Indians used to wash their clothes near Borax deposits. It also whitens clothes and is dynamite when combined with the sun to whiten yellowed shirts, clothes or towels. Storing our clothes in a closet has a lot to do with yellowing, so air drying clothes in the sun is always best practices.

To use: Mix ¼ cup (2 ounces) of Castile liquid soap per wash, (2 pumps if using our pump that measures for you) with one cup of your 'green' dry booster blend into the laundry water. You can make a dry 'booster' with 1 part baking soda to 2 parts mule team borax. Borax is a natural salt. We mix ours and keep it in a reusable one gallon white pail. Many people have tried this and say it cleans just as well as the commercial brands. We agree. They also swear using the soap directly on a stain is as good as the commerical brands. Again, we agree.

Blood removal - Keep hydrogen peroxide in your natural laundry bag of tricks. It takes fresh blood right out.

Mop Water- Adding Liquid Castile and Essential Oils to Mop Water We use one ounce of Liquid Castile per gallon of mop water, dropping essential oils into our mop water to give it a refreshing, natural and clean scent. Our favorites? Lemon for kitchen and dining areas, Lavender for bedroom areas, lime or even peppermint essential oils for the bathrooms. Siberian Firr Needle is quite pretty and smells like a high class pine. Add up to an ounce of Tea Tree Essential oil if you need serious germ busting effects-such as areas that are condusive to mold.

Mold Spray - You can also make a spray in a spray bottle to specifically target mold instead of using cholorine products. To have that fresh and clean commerical scent, use lemon essential oil and tea tree essential oil for its mold busting powers--shaken with water in a sprayer. Spray all potential mold areas until mixture is gone. This is because certain essential oils do not store well and may melt the plastic pump parts. You may want to "flush out" your pump when done with soapy water made from liquid castile soap.

Garden Soap - Spiders and Bug Spray To make your own natural garden bug controller, add a tablespoon of Mabel’s Liquid Castile Soap to a 16 ounce spray bottle of water. Adding a few tablespoons of cooking oil to the 'potion' and shaking well will really do them in. Bugs do not really like to hang around soap, and oil seems to suffocate tiny ones. Spray the base of your plants because that is where they tend to 'hop on' and leaves, that they are trying to eat in the first place. If you need extra fighting power, they HATE Geranium Essential Oil, (this is why planting geraniums often protects gardens). So a few drops of geranium and maybe Black Pepper Oil, in your potion, will give you WMD in the garden. Other essential oils they do not like include Lemongrass, Orange, Spearmint, & Peppermint.

To make a spider spray for inside the home, you may just want to omit the oil part of the recipe and spray where you think they are gaining entry.

Pets - My liquid castile soap is the way to lather Rover and also achieve a clean and shiny coat. Most commercial products in the market are overpriced and geared with heavy scent to make the humans happy. Dogs have a higher pH than humans. So commerical pet soaps don't have the proper PH, make the dog miserable as well as rob natural oils from the pets coat as well as cause skin conditions. Also, animals often develop sensitivities to the detergent chemicals commonly used in synthetic pet shampoos. Then we are told they are 'hot spots' as if they are some unexplained phenomena. When your pet suddenly has a skin condition, then they have more high priced products for that too. As far as scent, dogs have 25 more times scent receptors than humans do. It does not take much to overwhelm them. For this reason, essential oils can be used, but sparingly.

To use, mix 4 ounces (1/2) a cup of our Castile Liquid Soap too a gallon bucket of water. Mix well and lather away. Essential Oils and Dogs Never apply essential oils directly to your dogs skin. To repel buds, a dosage of 1 drop per 8 ounces of soapy water of the following essential oils can be used on your pooch: Lemongrass, Lavender, and/or Tea Tree. Other Natural & Aromatherapy

Household Tips - You can spray bath towels with a slight mist of Peppermint for that 'luxurious hotel' feeling. This idea has been borrowed from a Ritz Carlton. Eucalyptus is another viable essential oil to use in the disinfecting department. Orange essential oil will dissolve and get gum off most anything. Citric acid (vitamin C) will usually clean the soap grunge out of a dishwasher. Run a cycle with nothing but ½ cup of citric acid. In fact, we make citric acid 'toilet' cleaning bombs, allowing them to do their job over night. Lemon and Tea Tree is always a good choice when cleaning around plumbing. Citric and baking soda bombs can be used to clean a dishwasher as well as for toilets.

Citric Solution - I do not like the smell of vingar so I opt for a "Citric" solution. I use 10% citric acid to 90% distilled water - heating them up together in the microwave. When it is dissolved (stopped snowing) I cool it down and bottle it. I use this solution as window cleaner, in the laundry and so on.

Aromatherapy XIII by Deborah Dolen

2011-07-07T14:55:00.000-07:00

AROMATHERAPY - Chapter XIII by Deborah Dolen
Essential Oil Chemistry & Pharmaceuticals
Excerpt How to Make Perfume and Aromatherapy Basics
Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011

How did essential oils become known for having particular medicinal qualities or target effects? Did someone sit around and think these up or just hand down stories from generation to generation? I wondered that myself because not one Aroma therapist I ever ran into would mention phenols, keytones or terms used in organic chemistry. It is very possible they avoided using “techno” words as not to open up the next question…what is a keytone, aldehyde? And so on. The truth is, essential oils are very much used in the world of pharmacy and most descriptions below were taken from a Merck Pharmaceutical manual! (1988 Merck Index Eleventh Ed.)

You are about to be exposed to some words you are not used too. I do not expect anyone to remember them all, I do expect everyone to begin to familiarize themselves with the words and to try re-reading the profiles often. When the terms come up later, you will have a better grasp. Please do not correct spelling of any chemical word-they often look misspelled, when they are correct. Examples are citronellol, cinnamic, lavendulyl, and terpinene, which are correct and sometimes do not mean what we think.

Essential oils contain many constituents. The predominant components are terpenes and esters, but a large number of trace elements are also present. It is the synergy enabled by the presence of these trace elements that often give the real essential oil, and the extracted vapor, its character and enhance the ability to blend with other oils to create more complex vapors and desirable phyto-inhalation experiences.

In general, essential oils consist of chemical compounds that have hydrogen, carbon and oxygen as their building blocks. These can be subdivided into two groups: the hydrocarbons, which are made up almost exclusively of terpenes (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes and diterpenes); and the oxygenated compounds, mainly esters, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols, phenols and oxides; acids, lactones, sulphur and nitrogen compounds are sometimes also present.

It is interesting to note no laboratory has ever been able to make a synthetic essential oil that works, even when they have the actual chemical breakdown and components. Science has not figured out why this is. It just is. My theory is that each plant has its own DNA signature as we have fingerprints. Science has also not figured out what makes our molecules spin, and simply stop when we die. Science simply knows we are made up of atoms that spin around a nucleus. Again, my theory is we are made of energy, divine energy and divine energy makes us spin.

Therefore plants are no different in the grand design and their divine energy is what, in my mind, scientists cannot explain. So, are essential oils actually made up of, recognized by the pharmacy world and thus put into “classes?”

Aldehydes: These aldehydes have anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, disinfectant, sedative yet uplifting therapeutic qualities and are the component that imparts the citrus-like fragrance in melissa, lemongrass, lemon verbena, and citronella. These properties are best used in aromatherapy when the essential oil is used in low dilutions - around 1%. Other aldehydes include benzaldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, cuminic aldehyde and perillaldehyde.

Phenols: These tend to have a bactericidal and strongly stimulating effect, but can be skin irritants. Common phenols include eugenol (found in clove and West Indian bay), thymol (found in thyme), carvacrol (found in oregano and savory); methyl eugenol, methyl chavicol, anethole, safrole, myristicin and apiol among others.

Terpenes: Common terpene hydrocarbons include limonene (antiviral, found in 90 per cent of citrus oils) and pinene (antiseptic, found in high proportions in pine and turpentine oils); also camphene, cadinene, caryophyllene, cedrene, dipentene, phellandrene, terpinene, sabinene, and myrcene among others. Some sesquiterpenes, such as chamazulene and farnesol (both found in chamomile oil), have been the object of great pharmaceutical interest recently because of their outstanding anti-inflammatory and bactericidal properties.

Ketones: Some of the most common toxic constituents are ketones, such as thujone found in mugwort, tansy, sage and worm-wood; and pulegone found in pennyroyal and buchu, but this does not mean that all ketones are dangerous. Non-toxic ketones include jasmone found in jasmine, and fenchone in fennel oil. Generally considered to ease congestion and aid the flow of mucus, ketones are often found in plants that are used for upper respiratory complaints, such as hyssop and sage. Other ketones include camphor, carvone, methone, methyl nonyl ketone and pinocamphone. Other oils, such as hyssop, eucalyptus and rosemary have moderate amounts of ketones, and when used properly in aromatherapy can be greatly beneficial to the body. The ketone italidone found in everlasting, not only has the mucolytic (mucus easing) properties, but is also useful in skin regeneration, wound healing and reducing old scar tissue such as in wounds, stretch marks and adhesions.

Oxides: By far the most important oxide is cineol (or eucalyptol), which stands virtually in a class of its own. It has an expectorant effect and is well known as the principal constituent of eucalyptus oil. It is also found in a wide range of other oils, especially those of a camphoraceous nature such as rosemary, bay laurel, tea tree and cajeput. Other oxides include linalol oxide found in hyssop (decumbent variety), ascaridol, bisabolol oxide and bisabolone oxide.

Esters: Probably the most widespread group found in essential oils, which includes linalyl acetate (found in bergamot, clary sage and lavender), and geranyl acetate (found in sweet marjoram). They are characteristically fungicidal and sedative, often having a fruity aroma. Other esters include bornyl acetate, eugenyl acetate and lavendulyl acetate. Esters are formed from alcohols and acids, and are named after both their original molecules with the alcohols dropping the "ol" and gaining an "yl" and the acids dropping the "ic" and gaining an "ate". The esters found in essential oils are normally very fragrant and tend to be fruity and their therapeutic effects include being sedative and antispasmodic. Some esters also have anti-fungal and anti-microbial properties - like the anti-fungal properties in geranium oil. The most well known ester must be linalyl acetate, which is found in lavender, clary sage as well as petitgrain. These components are normally gentle in their actions and can be used with great ease.

Alcohols: One of the most useful groups of compounds, tending to have good antiseptic and antiviral properties with an uplifting quality; they are also generally non-toxic. Some of the most common terpene alcohols include linalol (found in rosewood, lineloe and lavender), citronellol (found in rosewood, lineloe and lavender), citronellol (found in rose, lemon, eucalyptus and geranium) and geraniol (found in palmarosa); also borneol, methol, nerol, terpineol, farnesol, vetiverol, benzyl alcohol and cedrol among others.

There are essentially two alcohol types: Monoterpene alcohols These oils have good antiseptic, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties with very few side effects such as skin irritation or toxicity and have an uplifting energizing effect. Examples of these alcohols are linalool, citronellol and terpineol found respectively in lavender, rose and geranium, and in juniper and tea tree oil. Sesquiterpene alcohols These alcohols are not commonly found in essential oils, but when found, like bisabolol in German chamomile, have great properties, which include liver and glandular stimulant, anti-allergen and anti-inflammatory. Other oils that contain sesquiterpene alcohols are sandalwood (a-santalol) as well as ginger, patchouli, vetiver, carrot seed, everlasting and valerian.

1. (2000) Physician’s Desk Reference for Herbal Medicines. Montvale, New Jersey: Medical Economics Company Inc., Second Edition. 2. (1989) Merck Index. Rathway, New Jersey: Merck & Co., Inc., Eleventh Edition. 3. Blumenthal/Goldberg/Brinckmann (2000). Herbal Medicine, Expanded Commission E Monographs. Newton, Massachusetts: Integrative Medicine Communications, First Edition.

Deborah Dolen's Perfume Formula | Cashmere

2011-06-20T05:37:00.000-07:00

Deborah Dolen's Cashmere Perfume Formula
Copyright © Deborah Dolen 2011 Excerpt from How to Make Perfume by Deborah Dolen

This is a seductive arrangement reminiscent of Chopard's Casmir. Chopard's Casmir embraces oriental vanilla, mango and subtle spices. You can craft this with essential oil or fragrance oils - just try to stay within the boundaries of the ratios below. Fruits generally do not come in essential oil mediums. This is why I listed them as just fragrance oil below. You can add a few of your own notes in, I think incense is awesome as a note (if you have captured any incense by infusion) and potentially sandalwood. You can anchor with a drop of Bergamot, I chose not too.

5 drops of Mango or Peach fragrance oil

5 drops of Jasmine fragrance oil
4 drops of Musk fragrance oil

4 drops Coconut fragrance oil

3 drops Lilly of the Valley fragrance oil

2 drops Patchouli essential oil

2 drops Amber essential oil

2 drops Oriental Vanilla essential oil [Tahitian]
1 drop Cinnamon essential oil [Cassia is fine]
1 drop Allspice essential oil
1 drop Clove essential oil
1 drop Nutmeg essential oil

Since all of the top, middle and base notes are perfected above - this formula tolerates the addition of florals and other spices very well. So, if you want to add more florals or spices or a variety of them-you will probably end up with another designer scent.

When you feel you have a perfume expression you love, you can then drop it into ethanol or perfumers alcohol to a dilution ratio you are happy with. This is the best way to convert an oil based recipe to a water based recipe. This formula is so special I do not use it for room spray. I use it for myself, in my bath, body lotions and so on. I discuss perfume dilutions here, in Perfume Crafting, and how to make solid perfume here. Savannah Botanical Perfume Formula is here.

COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months. http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Deborah Dolen's Perfume Formula | Savannah Botanicals

2011-06-10T14:54:00.001-07:00

Deborah Dolen's Savannah Botancial's Perfume Formula

Formula #01

Fragrance Oils

Rose Fragrance Oil 2 Ounces

Musk Fragrance Oil 2 Ounces

Clove FL 1 Ounce

Vanilla 1/2 Ounce

Cinnamon 1/2 Ounce

Oak Moss 1/2 Ounce

Vetivert 1/2 Ounce

Lilly 1/2 Ounce

Jasmine 1/2 Ounce

Hyacinth 1/2 Ounce

Orange Blossom 1/2 Ounce

Bergamot 1/2 Ounce

Savannah Botanicals Perfume is a beautiful expression of the Savannah Garden's Crabtree fragrance. At one point it was discontinued for several years, and why I felt compelled to make a close reflection. I worked on this for a few years and came up with a spicy, sweet floral that is a professional smelling blend. I formatted the formula in fragrance oil terms as well as essential oil terms. Most people cannot afford essential oils but have an easier time securing fragrance oils.

Formula #2

Essential Oils

Rose Attar oil 4 drops

Musk Essential oil 4 drops

Clove Essential oil 2 drops

Vanilla Essentail oil 1 drop

Cinnamon oil 1 drop

Oak Moss Resin oil 1 drop

Vetivert Essential oil 1 drop

Lilly of the Valley oil 1 drop

Jasmine essential oil 1 drop

Hyacinth essential oil 1 drop

Neroli essential oil 1 drop

Bergamot essential oil 1 drop

You can test this on a small scale, using fragrance oils - to see if you like the end result. Basically, to conduct a test using fragrance oils-just use the second formula that call for drops. When you feel you love it, you can then drop it into ethanol or perfumers alcohol to a dilution ratio you are happy with. This is the best way to convert an oil based recipe to a water based recipe. I use it for room and linen spray, and at times, I give it as a gift in a solid perfume form. I discuss dilutions here, in Perfume Crafting, and how to make solid perfume here.

If you like the perfume you can also put it in bath oils, body lotions, and so on. You may want to get picky about your fragrance oil sources anytime you put products on your skin - meaning when you are going beyond making room and linen sprays. To see what is your favorite fragrance profile, meaning what notes you are attracted to, click here. Select a few of your favorites scents and I am positive you will find they all have common notes. Click here for more on Perfume Blending. Deborah Dolen also teaches how to make perfume at Petal Science.

Spreading Joy by Rose Maison also has a great narrative of Deborah Dolen's work.

COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months.http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Twitter Deborah Dolen | Deborah Dolens 20 Twitter Favorites

2011-06-03T09:18:00.001-07:00

Twitter Deborah Dolen @DeborahDolen on Twitter

I love Twitter so much because you can perform a focus search on just about anything you are interested in. If you are into DIY, you can read educational news and posts about anything in DIY, and if you feel like it-you can even participate in the conversation. The same is true for couponing, if you are into coupons, or even environmental postings you can select that area to learn how to "go green."

I think Twitter will play a huge role in the next Presidental election. Never before have so many people been able to post ideas, during their busy schedules, and share why they feel what about who and why. I wonder if we won't all get on line some day to simply click a button to elect our president. Beyond polictics, DIY, crafting, and coupons-you can even follow your favorite music artist, sports, or just stay current on the news. I follow sports, mainly NASCAR and horse racing. Other area's I follow are the perfume makers as they always have neat ideas.

Cooking up a storm? Probably the best recipes in the world are shared on Twitter. I have many friends on Twitter who are Chefs. I find their posts amusing and informative. Suggested people to follow? Here is my list of who I enjoy following on Twitter: [Join me on Facebook because most of these people are my Facebook friends also!]

http://twitter.com/#!/DeborahDolen

http://twitter.com/#!/SpreadingJoy

http://twitter.com/#!/RockingJude

http://twitter.com/#!/Banksey78

http://twitter.com/#!/wood_brothers21

http://twitter.com/#!/CesarMillan

http://twitter.com/#!/Amazon

http://twitter.com/#!/andersoncooper

http://twitter.com/#!/pcousteau

http://twitter.com/#!/TIME

http://twitter.com/#!/NewsWeek

http://twitter.com/#!/LittleBrown

http://twitter.com/#!/THEROCK

http://twitter.com/#!/C_Brinkley

http://twitter.com/#!/DavidBowie

http://twitter.com/#!/DAVIDARCHIE

http://twitter.com/#!/mittromney

http://twitter.com/#!/aliciakeys

http://twitter.com/#!/UN

http://twitter.com/#!/Paul_Hewson [Bono]

Happy Twittering - Twitter Deborah Dolen and my Dog Ringo too!

@DeborahDolen

@RingoDAWG

Deborah Dolen's Preakness Predictions

2011-05-20T05:26:00.000-07:00

Deborah Dolen's Preakness Predictions 2011

The 136th Preakness on May 21,2011 is drawing a little comedy on Twitter. Twitter people want to see "Rapture" and "LeftBehind" in the running. I was thinking "ThereIsNoHeaven" should run in that litte trifecta-owner, naturally, Stephen Hawking, to make a shocker of an ending promised by major know nothing (no not Hawking) but the real master of doom Harold Camping. My take on that expiration date is more a Lucifer date-he knows his time is almost up-not to mention the small detail that Harold Camping signed business contracts that begin after May 21, 2011 .

Back to the real world, betting on the Preakness is always a lot easier than the Kentucky Derby because there are far less horses and those horses who performed well at the Derby usually perform better at the Preakness. The caveat to all of this is horses do not usually win on dirt and go back to win on synthetics. I know I said in my last article, Animal Kingdom had no dirt experience at all and I ruled him out, albiet his Jockey I ruled in. Animal Kingdom won the Derby anyway and I learned an exception to every rule. Animal Kingdom was my belated pick at the Derby because of the Jockey. That Jockey, John Velazquez, was supposed to ride Uncle Mo – who became ill with suspected gastric issues as the Derby approached.

Uncle Mo is still recovering at Winstar Farm where he has been since May 9th. Uncle Mo is doing better and has gained 30 pounds. He had lost at least 60 pounds during his perplexing illness. Speaking of rest, Nehro has been pleasantly excused from the Preakness. His owner, Ahmed Zayat did not feel compelled to enter Nehro in the Preakness and loves his horse enough to give him a break. For that reason alone, Nehro’s owner just won five Preaknesses in my book. This leads to my other point about Animal Kingdom, I think beyond going back to a synthetic track, and the fact he is probably tired – I am betting on him for show. That is third place. He has been run a lot the last year.

Midnight Interlude [7] had a jockey change since the Derby, to Martin Garcia and there is no doubt Garcia knows how to bring Interlude to his best racing potential. My best guesses Derby wise were the Jockey guesses. Since I am talking Jockeys, I need to mention Julien Leproux and “Dialed In” [12.]

Based on all of that, my picks are Mucho Macho Man [9], Dialed In [12], Animal Kingdom [11], and Midnight Interlude [7]. I will just probably trifecta box those four.

To see the Preakness line up click here.

Deborah Dolen on Kentucky Derby 2011

Deborah Dolen Saratoga NY Summer 2011

2011-05-12T10:02:00.000-07:00

Now that I have passed a major bench mark in my life, I am getting back to writing. I am super excited to say some of my writing will take place this summer in Saratoga, NY. I will be in Saratoga for the the "Traverse," which is the oldest thoroughbred horse race in America. With any luck "Uncle Mo" will be there and I can visit with him. I grew up walking and grooming the most beautiful thoroughbreds on the planet, at Saratoga - and for the best Jockeys; Cordero, Shoemaker, and Belmonte to name a few.

As far as Saratoga in August, I am trying to fly in early because Train and Maroon 5 play at Saratoga Performing Arts on the 9th or so of August. I will be visiting a few wineries and a pefumery while I am in upstate NY. If I have it my way I will be right back up there for the change of trees and skiing in Vermont this year. Books I have planned are two - one about making perfume which is more of a DIY endeavor and one "fiction" about the BP oil spill because I really think there was more to that than ever met the eye.

I love making perfume, I think it is like "golf" is to many people - (and I do not like golf) but proponents of golf say it is a "challange" between your own self and a challange that can never really be won. So, they are attracted to a sport they can improve at, but never really "win" and that is very much like the past time of making perfume.

Kentucky Derby Run for the Roses by Deborah Dolen

2011-05-07T09:44:00.000-07:00

There are many horses in this race, but just the same, many that have never ran on dirt or performed well on dirt - process of elimination is the best way to figure the outcome of the 2011 Kentucky Derby. The track is wet and expected to stay wet, and that will matter. I will get to the horses that only know or prefer grass or synthetic turf in a moment. If you are betting in the Derby try to pick your top six and stay flexible. A few contenders always get scratched at the last minute, so stay flexible. I tend to pick my top six-so last minute exits do not affect my positioning so much.

The favorites right now for the Kentucky Derby are Nehro [19], Twice the Appeal [3], Pants on Fire [7], in that order. Twice the Appeal normally would not be a huge contender, but the jockey, Calvin Borel, former three time Derby winner, (in the last 4 years) sure is. Mucho Macho Man [13] has also proven himself on dirt, and Dialed In [8] who is another favorite, because he is coupled with Jockey Julien Leparoux. Comma to the Top [6] is one I like and Archarcharch [1] - but he is on the inside and I do not think that is a good position for Archarcharch at all. A lot of people like Soldat [17] but I am not sure why because dirt tracks are not his bag. Brilliant Speed [2] is kind of a long shot favorite and I like him.

Picking by Jockeys

If we just picked this race by the Jockey it would be Midnight Interlude [15] with Victor Espinoza, Twice the Appeal [3] Calvin Borel, Animal Kingdom [16] John Velasquez and Dialed in [8] Jockey Julien Leparoux.

Uncle Mo, photo above, who has been a huge favorite simply is not in the running. Uncle Mo is my Secretariat. I had the good fortune to walk and groomed Secretariat when I was younger at Saratoga, then onto Belmont and then the Meadowlands. Uncle Mo has been having serious gastrointestinal issues, and after being looked at by three different vets - they agree he is in no shape to run. His owner is concerned at Uncle Mo's lack of responsiveness to his meds.

Master if Hounds [11] and Animal Kingdom [16] have never ran on dirt and it is supposed to be a wet track. Brilliant Speed [2] and Twin inspired [10] prefer turf or synthetic and never performed well on dirt.

I did not mention 4, 5, 9, 12, 14 and 20. Let's look at them: Stay Thirsty [4] Decisive Moment [5], Derby Kitten [9], Santiva [12] Shackelford [14] and Watch Me Go [20] because they are all long shots for verygood reasons.

Upsets could be Stay Thirsty [4] and Archarcharch [1] who is either going to make it or break it on the inside of the tough first gate.

My betting? I select a few ways and then box them, usually on a trifecta.

Performance: Nehro [19], Mucho Macho Man [13], Archarcharch [1], Pants on Fire [7].

Jockey's: Dialed In [8] Julien Leparoux, Twice the Appeal [3] Calvin Borel, Midnight Interlude [15] with Victor Espinoza, Animal Kingdom [16] John Velasquez.

Lucky Numbers: [3] Twice the Appeal, [4] Stay Thristy [6] Comma to the Top [19] Nehro

Like Names: Brilliant Speed [2,] Twice the Appeal [3], Comma to the Top [6,] Archarcharch [1]

Click here to see more about the horses http://www.kentuckyderby.com/horses

Post Derby Results: Animal Kingdom [16] just proved you can win the Kentucky Derby even if you have never ran on dirt. The beauty of Animal Kingdom was the Jockey was supposed to be Uncle Mo's Jockey. John Velasquez was tired of being scratched at previous Derby's and claimed the 2011 Run for the Roses as his own. My first two performance picks were on target and in order. So no more betting by lucky numbers or cool names for me!

Click here to see more about the horses http://www.kentuckyderby.com/horses

Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's

2011-05-04T12:35:00.000-07:00

As summer approaches making your own perfume is a fun and easy project.

Making your own perfume or cologne is extremely easy if you have lots of time to just experiment with blending various scented oils. Almost all scents originate from the oil part of a botanical extraction. Even if a scent is not usually found in an oil form it is always best to try to find the oil version of the scent you like when trying to blend - if it is available in oil form. Vanilla would be a great example. Making vanilla extract is essentially making a perfume. Meaning the scent of vanilla is extracted by a form of alcohal. Vanilla is usually sold as water based (extract) but can be purchased as a much harder to find oil (essential oil)-however the oil based vanilla is going to last much longer in most professional applications. In a nutshell, I made my first perfume years ago by combining different precious oils, fragrance oils, flavor oils and essential oils I liked and had on hand. My formula was a mixture of vanilla, musk, neroli, vetivert, sweet spices, white florals (such as lilly of the valley, white rose), oppomax and incense. It took months to "build." I even soaked incense in oil for a few months, to capture the scent of the incense. (Naturally I strained it when I when I felt it was the most scent I could impart.) For about a year I just dabbed the oil I formulated on myself. It was not until I took that oil mixture I adored and dropped it into a very high proof alcohol (190 proof ethanol) - did it "bloom" and blow me away. I cannot recall why I did that - I think I was just bored or trying to make what I did have stretch to also share with a friend. Dispersing the oil in a high proof alcohol gave the scent so many new facets. Like my creation went from two dimensions to several. Most importantly it made it "throw" just like the Chanel #22 I was trying to copy. Chanel had ceased making that arrangement years back and I could not envision living without #22. Number 22 was known as the "wedding" perfume made with only white flowers. Knowing this was a major advantage to coming close to a copy I liked. There is a "perfumers alcohol" that is about 200 proof, but it is not easy to get. Mainly those who sell it, will elaborate on why you "must" use that. I use whatever I can get my hands on and that is generally "Everclear" or Mohawk, 190 proof.

Dilutions: What Makes Perfume Grade vs Toilet Water Grade?

I will call your final product a “compound” or “ester.” Once you have designed a great scent (compound) and given it a name it is going to be fantastic in any dilution! Your masterpiece “symphony” of oil based compounds will become more multifaceted with the addition of a high proof alcohol. A high proof alcohol such as Everclear 190 will “solve” your oils. Some states can only secure 150 proof and that is acceptable, but still not as good as 190. In fact, I really do not like 150 for much at all-so maybe forget that.

Real perfume is usually 10-20% of the master oils formulation and 80% a very high proof alcohol. Some perfumeries add 5% distilled water in exchange for part of the alcohol but I never have. Colognes are usually maxim 3-5% of the precious formula with 80% alcohal, and 10% distilled water. Toilet water is usually maximum 2% precious oils to 80% alcohol and 20% distilled water. Body splash is pretty much in the cologne dilution category. I do worry about oxidation of precious raw materials so I drop anti-oxidants such as dendritic salt and or vitamin E into my oil blends. ROE, Rosemary Oleoresin extract is also great and very powerful but can discolor the project.

Perfume = 10%-20% compound /5% distilled water/80% alcohol
Cologne 3-5% compound/10% distilled water/85% alcohol
Toilet Water=2% compound/18% distilled water/80% alcohol

Materials to make Perfume?

Beyond securing a high proof alcohol such as Everclear 190 and distilled water, you can draw raw materials to make your compound from many places. I know people who soak special woods in alcohal to extract a special scent. I find that so facinating. I did the same with orange blossoms that were always plenty on my property in Florida. When making your own perfume, you are going to want to buy some atomizers when you are on a roll with a great scent or two. Sephora makes some really neat ones I buy on line - probably half the price of all others ($10) and same peformance. Always keep careful notes. Your best creation could be what you felt your worst mistake. My readers generally have the same materials around the house that I have in my lab. They generally already have fragrance oils, flavor oils and/or essential oils. My Chanel #22 copy had about 50% fragrance oil, 20% flavor oil and 30% essential oil because I drew from what I had. I made careful notes about my sources of each scent because, for example, a vanilla fragrance oil is no where near as strong as vanilla essential oil. This means much less vanilla is needed in my formula if I ever replaced vanilla FO with vanilla EO.

Your Blend Can Go Into Lotion and Crème

Your compound can usually blend right into an already made lotion or crème without adding alcohol. Vanilla is my absolute favorite ingredient, and in almost all of my formulas, but the down side is browning. Vanilla seems to “bloom” into pink dots and over a month’s time make the entire lotion a pinkish brown. It looks just like women’s’ cosmetic foundation. Although the change always freaks me out, many of my friends liked that attribute and felt it was more natural. I am still on the fence about the “blooming” but I still loving my vanilla. Lately I just opt for a synthetic vanilla, that still is from a natural source. It is a tree resin. Meaning not all synthetics are dangerous chemicals. And some "natural" things that are "organic" are more dangerous that synthetics. Arsenic is a great example of a natural substance.

Other Ways to Garner Scent

Many people do not realize water is the most used solvent known to man. When we make a cup of coffee we are using water to “solve” the parts of the bean we are after. This is also known as solvent extraction. Now envision putting barks, petals, spices (in whole or freshly crushed form,) citrus peels and/or moss in the coffee filter. The end result would be a melange of scent.

Looking at scent compounding another way, think of vanilla extract. It is made over time by placing the vanilla bean in a high proof alcohol. To save money and perhaps reduce any residual alcohol smell, some distilled water is added to most extracts. As I said above, making vanilla extract is essentially like making perfume.

Just for Fun! Extraction Project

In 16 ounces of a high proof alcohol (2 cups) put lemon citrus rinds, cinnamon sticks, a vanilla bean (partially macerated- spliced- for maximum flavor,) crushed whole nutmeg or any other peel, rind, aromatic you can think of. Petals are OK but do brown. Allow to sit for a few months, shaking a few times a week. Filter through a coffee filter. For a stronger result do it a second time. I call this “folds,” such as “four fold” if I repeat the process 4 times. The end result should be a wonderful aromatic base you can spray around your home. Keep this away from heat because alcohol is very flammable.

A very comprehensive list I created years ago is here:

Designer Perfume Notes Index
http://www.mabelwhite.com/Recipes/PerfumeFormulas.htm

Deborah Dolen on Perfume Crafting with Exotic Oils Recipes and Formula's
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2010/07/deborah-dolen-on-perfume-crafting-with.html

Deborah Dolen on How to Make Perfume
http://deborahdolen.blogspot.com/2011/05/deborah-dolen-on-perfume-crafting-with.html

Introduction to Making Perfume and Most Important 66 notes to Have: Propensity Chart
http://petalscience.com/ by Deborah Dolen

COMMENTS are on another platform because BlogSpot has too many comment issues, including the fact my own comment ability is not working and has not been for months.http://petalscience.com/#COMMENTS

Deborah Dolen on London's Royal Wedding Bells

2011-04-28T09:50:00.000-07:00

I took this photo when I was in London at 10 Downing Street. At the time it was the official residence of former Prime Minister Tony Blair. The horses kept on Downing street are known as the Queen's life buoys. They are expected to be in full force Friday as the Royal Wedding makes it way to Westminister Abbey.

For more dish on the Royal wedding cake, royal flowers and more click my OpenSalon article or follow me on Twitter!

Click here for full article by Deborah Dolen

Royal Website

The official Royal wedding site very interactive and looks like a Disney production. You can see it by clicking here: http://bit.ly/eDoD6K and live stream can be seen here on Friday, http://www.officialroyalwedding2011.org/

Visit Amazon.com's Deborah Dolen Page and shop for all Deborah Dolen books and other Deborah Dolen related products (DVD, CDs, Books, audiobooks). Visit Deborah Dolen on Twitter or join Deborah Dolen on Facebook. Sources: The London Apothecary by Deborah Dolen.

One Dog’s Stoic Loyalty - Story from Japan’s Tsunami

2011-03-27T10:24:00.000-07:00

One Dog’s Stoic Loyalty - from Japan’s Tsunami by Deborah Dolen

Two dogs were rescued from Sendai by a CEO of a pet food company, Kenn Sakurai, but not before millions of people around the globe saw the moving video of one disoriented pooch locating and then standing by another dog who was injured. Viewers then watched the patient efforts one the one pooch trying to wake the other one up. Even Cesar Millan Tweeted to me that it brought “tears to his eyes.” [@CesarMillan if you want to follow that great guy on Twitter!] The video touching hearts world wide is here:

After seeing the video everyone wondered the fate of the two dogs. The camera men took a lot of flack for leaving the dogs there. “They were located and removed by dirt bikes with cages strapped on the back,” said Kenn Sakurai. But the rescuer, the owner of the pet food company, made it clear there were many more. It took them 2 hours to ride them to the nearest shelter in Mito, Ibaraki-ken. Both dogs had ID chips and their respective owners have been identified. Regarding Sendai animals in general, there are reports of two horses refusing to leave their deceased owner. Witnesses said that is something that cannot be on video, naturally.

World Vets is committed to helping and The Humane Society International is shipping $120,000 worth of supplies and equipment to Japan. If you want to see about my dog, Ringo, was rescued from Katrina. He had swam in the levees at least 24 hours. I am about to get another Retriever and I anticipate naming him or her “Sendai.”

Some of the longest footage of the Tsunami is here:

Related Stories: California Couple Collects 34,000 pounds of food and counting for Japan’s pets

Author Deborah Dolen on Water Issues by Deborah Dolen (API)

2011-03-27T09:22:00.000-07:00

Water is our most important resource. Read more about our water issues.

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